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Marcel's Rt. 9W, West Park. 384-6700. On a recent trip to Marcel's,
I was reminded of the passage in Anna Karenina where Levin, Anna’s
soldier lover, goes to dine in a French restaurant with his friend Oblonsky,
a gourmand. Levin notes a strange transformation in his friend as the
two cross the restaurant’s threshold: "As Levin entered the restaurant
with Oblonsky, he couldn’t help noticing a certain expression, almost
a contained radiance, that suffused Oblonsky’s face and his whole presence."
Such was my state upon entering Marcel’s. My dining companion and I
sauntered over to the bar, acclimated ourselves to the warm glow of
the place with drinks and conversation with Roger, the knowledgeable
and helpful bartender—who thankfully second-guessed a bad wine decision
I made during the course of our meal, thereby saving us from maladroit
vinousness—before being seated in the nearly empty, late-night dining
room. We began with the pâté de maison, a sturdy yet surprisingly
smooth meat paste, then forayed into a plate of buttery, earthy escargot—de
riguer when eating French as far as I’m concerned—and a quick palate
cleansing of salad greens before the entrées. The rack of lamb—cooked
rare so that, at the slightest touch of a fork, juices would bubble
up through the pink meat—was heartily apportioned and passed through
my mouth like ribbons of meat-silk. The steak au poivre, flambéed
tableside, Remarking on the dismal affair of most literature and the exalted state of eating, Charles Simic wrote: "One could compose an autobiography mentioning every memorable meal in one’s life and it would probably make better reading than what one ordinarily gets. Honestly, what would you rather have? The description of a first kiss, or of stuffed cabbage done to perfection?" We agree. A note on our pricing scheme: $--Cheap/$$--Not as cheap as we'd like/$$$--Better put it on plastic. (*Asterisks indicate new reviews.) Remarking on the dismal affair of most literature and the exalted state of eating, Charles Simic wrote: "One could compose an autobiography mentioning every memorable meal in one’s life and it would probably make better reading than what one ordinarily gets. Honestly, what would you rather have? The description of a first kiss, or of stuffed cabbage done to perfection?" We agree. *David’s Restaurant 1654 Route 212, Saugerties. 679-1223. What a surprise to see my grade-school buddy David Brothman stroll into the Chronogram offices in his white shirt emblazoned with the words "executive chef." Knowing him in boyhood as one possessing an appreciation for refined sensual stimuli I was eager to taste his concoctions at the new restaurant which is his nom de plume. Described as "California French," Davids’ menu features a host of classic dishes prepared with gastronomic gusto and a strong dose of creativity. My "Trout a la David," based on the Almondine standard was subtle and fairly flopping off the plate with freshness. And the "David’s Medallions" appetizer featured just-gamy-enough goat cheese crusty with black walnuts—the walnuts being the restaurant’s hallmark. Located in the old Joe’s Woodstock BBQ building, the venue is worth a gander. $$—JCS Claude’s French Bistro Rt. 214, Phoenicia. 688-2561. Return to rural Europe—warm décor, indirect lighting, red and white checkered tablecloths, the personable patron Claude attending to our every need. Start with the Celery Remoulade, dressed to perfection with almost melting sprigs of leek, then sample the smooth vegetable soup and cleanse your palate with the mesculun salad mixture of baby greens dressed in Chef Serge’s fine vinaigrette. For entreés, try the Lapin Chausseur—rabbit in a wine and mushroom sauce—and the Steak de Saumon à la Dijonaise—poached salmon steak with mustard sauce. To eat right at Claude’s you should take tous les amis and share and compare, or just go with your lover feeding you the best bites. $$—Marlis Momber Mughal Raj 110 Route 9 South, Rhinebeck. 876-4696.As far as the prize for Indian food goes, Mughal Raj wins by default. (How many other Indian joints are there?) But if there was more sub-continental fare around I wager Mughal Raj would still rank. Skip the Nan for the Paratha—light flaky bread sautéed in butter—with a bowl of Mulligatawny, spicy lentil soup and veggie Samosas, a good start. Entrée highlights: The chicken Jalfraze can be cut with a spoon and is punctuated by tiny green chiles that burst between your teeth like pockets of heat; the shrimp in the shrimp curry are large & plentiful, the curry tangy and smooth. In fact, having eaten twice at Mughal Raj, I’ve yet to be disappointed by anything. The service is also typically Indian: swift, courteous and kind.$$—BKM Steven’s Restaurant 337 Washington Ave., Kingston. 331-4437.Reader Susan Holland turned
us on to Steven's a year ago, and for that reason Susan, we are eternally
in your debt. This place has the best pizza in the Valley—period. The
chef, Geoff Grayson, is a master of the thin crust. When we bring friends,
we don’t let them even see the menu: we just order the heaping cold
antipasto plate to start, and Grandma’s Sicilian with The Student Prince 239 Cooper St. (Rt. 213), Stone Ridge. 687-0810.This homey German restaurant focuses on stick-to-your-ribs meat and many starches, and a list of German beer and wine to be proud of. Weiswurst, bratwurst, Wiener schnitzel and sauerbraten, the classic German entrees are tangy, salty, hot and greasy just as they are in the Schwartzwald. But starches are where the fun comes in; choose from spaetzle (never mealy or sticky), dumplings, crispy potato pancakes with applesauce, and potatoes baked, mashed or fried. Be sure to note the mounted deer heads on the wall whispering German Oompa-pa and the real-live hunters conversing at the bar. $$—ASP Wildflower Restaurant 18 Church St.,New Paltz’s, 255-0020.New Paltz last bastion
of vegetarian cuisine has gone the way of all flesh. The Wildflower
has revamped their menu to include seafood and free-range chicken dishes
in addition veggie standbys: Mousaka, Shepherd’s pie, and a new fresh
pasta special every day. Try the delicious Sautéed Salmon &
Rice wrap for lunch. Dedicated imbibers will welcome a comprehensive
list of wines and beers. The outdoor dining area includes an imported
Venetian fountain as a receptacle for loose change. If your memory of
Wildflower is less than inspiring, take another taste. New World Home Cooking 1411 Rt. 212, Woodstock. 679-2600.This place is HOT! In fact almost everything on the menu is spicy (though customizable), from Peple Haze to Meanhouse BBQ and the New World Jerk Sauce. The great decor includes an ever-changing art exhibit, including curios and art objects from around the world. $$ --JCS |