The
Art of Business
The Alternative Baker
photo by Megan McQuade It’s a busy Monday at The Alternative Baker, a small storefront
bakery on the Rondout in Kingston dedicated to providing only the purest
ingredients in their products. Essell Hoenshell-Watson, the creator
of The Alternative Baker, and his crew of five are racing around trying
to get a shipment out on time. Monday, their traditional slow day, is
reserved for such chaos. Ever since the store launched its Web site,
www.lemoncakes.com, eight months ago, sales have increased dramatically.
It seems people just can’t get enough of Hoenshell-Watson’s
fine baked goods, which are 100 percent natural.
At The Alternative Baker, everything is made from scratch on a daily
basis. “I don’t use bleached flours or powdered eggs,”
said Hoenshell-Watson, who only uses fresh butter, eggs, and milk to
create his delectable treats. According to Hoenshell-Watson, that gives
his baked goods a sweet and round taste. While most bakeries use what
Hoenshell-Watson refers to as “shortcuts”, he refuses to compromise.
“Using shortcuts is cheating,” Hoenshell-Watson said. “My
grandmother wouldn’t do it and I won’t do it.”
In order to guarantee fresh muffins, scones, and sticky buns every day,
Essell and his staff must wake before the sun has completely risen to
start loading the ovens. And by the time the store doors open at 8am,
customers are greeted by the sweet-smelling fragrance of cinnamon, butter,
and caramelized sugar.
Even as the register chimes with sales from coffee, muffins, and buttermilk
scones, Essell and his troops are still busy in the kitchen preparing
the peasant breads and foccacias for lunch. By 11:30am they have been
working for five hours behind the hot ovens; but the day isn’t
even halfway over for them. There’s still seven hours left. The
telephone and e-mail orders must be baked and shipped.
What started as a small wholesale business in 1996—selling baked
goods at craft fairs and food festivals—grew into a small bakery
that has attracted a modest clientele. According to Hoenshell-Watson,
however, “walk-in traffic doesn’t pay the bills.”
Hoenshell-Watson, who puts all of his energy into his work, found it
frustrating to put forth so much effort and fall short at the end of
each day. “I set the tables and light the candles, so to speak,
and then no one comes in.” So he looked outside the area for a
market in order to stay alive.
The new Web site has really helped to boost sales. “If nobody knows
you’re there, nobody’s gonna do anything,” he explained.
Since the creation of the lemon cakes Web site, Essell —along with
his dedicated staff—has been busy filling an average of four to
10 extra orders in a week. The added workload has them clocking over
90 hours each week, but Hoenshell-Watson doesn’t mind. “I
wouldn’t do it if I didn’t love it.” Thankfully, he has
a good staff backing him up, and Hoenshell-Watson acknowledges, “it
takes a team to execute what we do.”
Having a good staff allows Hoenshell-Watson to spend needed time on
marketing the Web site. Working within a small budget, he has sent press
releases to various trade publications such as Gourmet Magazine and
The New York Times cooking section. Recently, he placed his first national
advertisement in Fine Cooking magazine. But perhaps what helped garner
the most attention for the site was a spot on Connecticut public radio
show Food Schmooze. After sending them a few sample lemon cakes, the
show raved about them. “We got a terrific response from that,”
said Hoenshell-Watson.
Integrity of ingredients is a big deal to Hoenshell-Watson—he vows
never to compromise his belief in the creation of fine baked goods for
the sake of the cutting corners. “We’ve got big plans, but
we don’t want to stomp on the integrity of the product,” Hoenshell-Watson
said. “Like an artist or sculptor, I put my soul into it. I take
it seriously.” He admitted he could lighten up a bit, “but
then I wouldn’t be who I am.”
Hoenshell-Watson, who first started baking after the stock market crash
of 1987, was originally in the art gallery business out in California.
When he couldn’t find a job, he began baking and found it satisfying.
“I got tired of relying on others for my livelihood,” he said.
Essell attended the Culinary Institute of America, where he refined
his baking skills and fell in love with the Hudson Valley region. When
the two-year baking and pastry program was completed, he decided he
wanted to stay in the area.
Hoenshell-Watson’s dream was to create a bakery like the kind found
along the streets of European villages. “It’s hard to find
high quality baking in this area,” admitted Hoenshell-Watson, who
made it his goal to change that.
Unfortunately, not too many people recognize the difference between
fresh, 100 percent naturally-made goods and the processed cookies, muffins,
and cakes most other bakeries sell. The distinction is in the taste,
though. “Our lemon cakes are extraordinary, and our scones are
freakin’ fabulous,” boasted Hoenshell-Watson. In fact, he
assures that if you try his pastries you’ll appreciate the difference
and come back for more.
In fact, Hoenshell-Watson named his Web site after the delicious lemon
cakes, which are the primary item that they send out. Made from an original
1930s recipe, the lemon cakes are a unique delicacy. They are actually
what started the company. “I always thought they were marvelous
and the customers kept coming back for them.”
At 46, Hoenshell-Watson has finally found his calling. His vision for
the old-fashioned bakery has been realized with a little help from modern
technology, bringing a touch of European quaintness to Kingston and
making it accessible at the click of a mouse.
—Jacqueline Edelman
The Alternative Baker is located at 35 Broadway, Kingston, NY 12401.
For further information, call (845)331-5517 or toll free at (800)399-3589.
Or visit it on the Web at www.lemoncakes.com. Store Hours: Thurs - Mon
8am to 6pm, except Sunday 8 am to 4 pm.
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