Driving around the Hudson Valley, one is afforded a familiar and reassuring sight: herds of peaceful cattle grazing in verdant fields. It just seems so natural, looks so right. And, in fact, it is. Grass—an umbrella description for the hay, timothy, alfalfa, and weeds that cattle eat in fields—is exactly what cows are designed to eat. They have four stomachs that are ideally suited for processing large quantities of high fiber, low-nutrition grass. They eat lots of it, process it slowly, and generally lead a low-stress country life.
But this type of existence is in sharp contrast to how the vast majority of beef cattle in America are raised. The commercial meat industry sends cattle to feedlots for “finishing”—a super-quick fattening up. At these feedlots, where the cattle are jammed together in a very unherdlike manner, they are fed a diet of nutrient-rich grain and feed supplements (often made from ground up cattle parts), and even hormones to stimulate growth.
It’s a diet that they are ill-designed to digest, and this unnatural situation causes bovine health problems, including ulcers of the liver from the too-rich diet, and various infections that result from the ulcers and the unsanitary conditions created by too much manure in a confined place. So, in addition to hormones for growth, commercially raised cattle are routinely given antibiotics to fight these infections. In fact, these practices are so prevalent that more than half of both the bicarbonate of soda (to neutralize the ulcer-causing acid) and over 60 percent of the antibiotics produced in this country are fed to livestock.
The result is that most of the beef we buy in the supermarket contains lots of things we’d rather not get from our meat. Not to mention mad cow disease (technically known as Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy or bse), which is found in nerve tissues that can find their way into commercially processed ground beef as well as into the supplements fed in feedlots.
What can the meat eaters among us do? Think back to those happily grazing local herds. The good news is that there are a growing number of farmers who raise and sell grass-fed beef. Not only is this pasture-raised meat a solution that’s healthy for the consumer, but it’s healthier for the cows and for the environment too.
Stephen Kaye’s Lithgow Cottage Farm in Millbrook, New York, is a prime example of this new/old type of farming. “We farm in the traditional way rather than on the industrial model,” Kaye explains. “The quality of the animal depends on the quality of the grass and forages that they are fed.” This quality does not go unnoticed; Lithgow Cottage Farm counts approximately 20 restaurants (locally and in New York City) as steady customers. Kaye says that the meat tastes better and smells better, and it seems that the chefs know it. “When I take this meat to the chefs, some of them just handle it and smell it because it’s so different from commercial meat.”
Jo Robinson is a vociferous proponent of pasture-raised meat. Her Web site, www.eatwild.com (subtitled “The Clearinghouse for Information about Pasture-Based Farming), has plenty of technical information about the benefits of grass-fed meat, all of which supports the contention that traditionally raised beef is better in many ways.
Robinson explains that because the habitat is more natural, there’s no need for antibiotics and steroids. Further, because pasture-raised beef is not fattened up (finished) in a feedlot, a grass-fed steak contains about half the fat found in grain-finished beef and has other valuable nutrients not found in commercially raised beef, such as Omega-3 fatty acids, Vitamin E, and a variety of minerals.
The bottom line is that when animals are allowed to consume what they are designed to digest—gaining nutrients naturally—the benefit is passed along in their meat.
Traditional farming places much less stress on the environment as well. Animals exist in a more natural habitat, often making use of the symbiotic relationships that exist between different farm denizens—sheep graze where cows can’t; chickens clean up after cows, naturally spreading the manure to fertilize the hay fields.
There are also the conomic benefits; buying locally raised products supports the local economy.
More and more restaurants include pasture-raised meats on the menu. In addition to its superior nutritional value, chefs and farmers alike will tell you that pasture-raised meat is more flavorful and has richer color. The veal is actually rosy, the pork is not as white as we’ve come to expect, chickens taste like…well…chickens. And, because this meat is lower in fat, it often needs to be cooked more slowly to allow the connective tissues to soften and become tender. Several chefs cited this as a creative opportunity; grilling grass-fed meat is generally reserved for the traditional steak cuts such as sirloin or filet mignon.
Ric Orlando, chef/owner of New World Home Cooking, makes a living out of his socially conscious approach to food. He says that about 85 percent of the meat he serves is grass-fed or naturally raised; the meat fits into his philosophy of preparing what he describes as clean, focused, healthy, robust food. “Most health food is so austere—it doesn’t need to be. People are looking for lust when they go out to eat, not discipline.”
Orlando likes pasture-fed meat, in part because he has to be creative. “I use a lot of alternative cuts—brisket, shank, short ribs; Americans tend to be hung up on loin cuts—which is just a small part of a large animal,” he explains. One of the signature dishes on New World’s menu is Ropa Vieja—a Cuban pot roast that’s simmered all day. But you can also order a big ol’ steak and feel OK about it—it says right on the menu it’s grass-fed in Montana.
Richard Erickson at Blue Mountain Bistro also enjoys the inventive aspect of cooking pasture-raised meat. “It’s easy to throw a steak on the grill—fun but not that rewarding. On the other hand it’s a challenge to take a big shoulder, a sinewy chunk of meat, and transform it into an unctuous, silky-smooth stew.”
He adds that the fact that he often knows the suppliers—that they’re from the area—makes the whole thing more rewarding too. “This beef doesn’t exactly come from my backyard, but I know the person who raised it and brought it to me…. I really want to make something delicious.”
Dave Work from the Inn at Stone Ridge voices the same attractions of pasture-raised meats. “I serve it not just for the flavor, but for political and health reasons too. Commercially raised meats are fed all kinds of things they shouldn’t eat—chickens eat ground up cows and chickens, whatever. [In contrast] the ducks we get are raised outside, eating grasshoppers and an assortment of grass and grains that are healthy for them.”
One drawback the chefs do cite is some difficulty in getting a consistent supply of the cuts they want on a regular basis to assure the availability of items on the menu. They all agree that distribution channels are improving, but there is an inherent seasonality to the nature-driven pasture raising process that makes it less dependable for restaurant use.
A well-established local purveyor of organic and natural meats is Jack’s Meats and Deli in New Paltz. Proprietor Abdul Joulani has been selling organic meat for over a decade—it represents about 80 percent of his butcher business—drawing customers from as far away as Albany and Westchester. “About four years ago I was approached by a local farmer who had seen my ads for organic and wanted me to try the grass-fed,” says Joulani. “He sent me samples and they were delicious.” He says that now about 40 percent [I believe this stat confuses the last stat]of the noncommercial meat he sells is grass-fed. “It’s becoming more and more popular because people are becoming more aware of what they eat. They eat less meat and they want to eat healthier.” Joulani himself eats only naturally produced meat and says the grass-fed has the best flavor.
One thing to keep in mind when preparing this meat at home is that you can’t just toss every piece on the grill. The lower fat content calls for a more traditional approach to the cuts, emphasizing the slower cooking of braising, stewing, and roasting, methods that create a profusion of flavor in a rich, succulent meal.
All this tender loving care comes at a cost: pasture-raised meat is more expensive than commercially raised. But if the health benefits and nutritional qualities are taken seriously, the benefit to the consumer, the community, the environment, and the animals offsets any higher cost over the long run.
Where’s the Beef?
How can you get your own hands on this wonderful stuff? For a long time most of the local pasture-raised meat was sold to restaurants, but in recent years increasing demand for good quality grass-fed meat to cook at home has created retail channels.
Many local farmers sell their products at area farmers’ markets and in New York City. Jack’s Meats and Deli, 79 Main Street in New Paltz, (845) 255-2244, has a wide selection of different grass-fed meats. Adams Fairacre Farms in Poughkeepsie, (845) 336-6300, generally keeps some cuts of grass-fed beef in the freezer case.
There are several local cooperatives that sell to individual customers. Quantities can be larger than you have to buy at the supermarket—often the smallest amount is 20 pounds, and often buyers get together to share a quarter or half a cow. Nearby co-ops include www.valleyfarmers.com, (845) 868-1826, and www.meadowraisedmeats.com, (607) 278-5602.
Web sites that offer geographically organized listings of mail order retail suppliers include www.eatwild.com, www.localharvest.org, and www.nichepork.org. Try www.conservationbeef.org for mail-order pastured beef from Montana.
Adams, Emmanuel’s, and Hannaford markets offer beef marked “naturally raised” or “hormone free.” The cattle are not subjected to the stresses of the feedlot; they are raised in fields and are not fed hormones, antibiotics, or steroids. The key difference is that the cattle are fed grain to increase the marbling and fat content of the meat. While much healthier for consumers than commercially raised beef, this meat may not offer all of the nutritional benefits found in grass-fed beef.