Frankly
Speaking by
Frank Crocitto
They
Also Serve
His name was Raj.
And he was one of many. And had things gone smoothly I might never have
met him, nor had the good fortune of being touched by the fineness of
his character. Raj was his name, he said, and when pressed, he explained
with a sly smile, that hed shortened it because there were no
more rajahs in India. Yet long before we parted, I realizedand
told him sothat he was more than a raj and more than a rajahhe
was a maharajah.
The first night on board was unnerving. Everything was new, everything
had to be explored, and despite the calm waters and the immensity of
the ship, a slow, persistent rocking affected our every step. The floating
marshmallow had been built at a cost of 400 million dollars. That much
money at the disposal of an Italian designer was bound to produce a
Coney Island on the High Seasall glitter and gleam,
gold-flecked marble, gilded scrollwork, flashing lights and ornate balustrades,
glass-bubble elevators, pools, Jacuzzis and bright-colored glass walls
reminiscent of the jukeboxes of the 50s. They had named it the
Costa Atlantica, but it should have been called the Cosa Ostentatia.
The ship contained everything necessary for cruising the warm aquamarine
of the Caribbean under a full moon in February. Food was served from
6:15 in the morning to midnight. Drink, except for water, was available
around the clock at each of the 13 bars. There was a casino where wheels
and blackjack and one-armed bandits turned smiles to frowns. There was
a streetyeah, a streetlined with shops where shoppers could
save on liquor and gold and tropical necessities. And there were swimming
pools and three lukewarm tubs, and a spa with a real hot tub, and weights
to lift and treadmills to tread, where massages, with and without seaweed,
were offered. There was a jogging track and stages with electronic pianos
and steel drums, and state-of-the-art sound systems to amplify singers
who scream and coaches who bark aerobic commands at the aged, the infirm
and the overweight. And there was a thousand-seat teatro
where movies flickered and where vaudeville tap-danced back to life.
While down the halls and through the loungesday and nightfloated
long, languid clouds of tobacco smoke.
Attending the 2,300 passengers were 900 crewmembers. To this group belonged
Raj. Like the passengers, the crew was multi-national and communication
was multi-lingual, so much so that one marveled at the variety of ways
one could be misunderstood. Some spoke English, and among these was
Raj, who spoke the Kings English with that captivating trill that
has helped Rajneesh, the Maharishi, Deepak Chopra, and to a lesser extent
Mahatma Gandhi, rise to such notoriety in the West.
Raj came from Bombay; thats where his family lives, his wife and
two boys. He sees them for a month after each eight-month stint at sea.
I pulled these few facts out of him over the course of six days on the
ocean. He has a deep reserve and a reluctance to burden anyone with
the details of his life.
Had my wife and I kept to our assigned table in the dining hall we would
have missed him: Table 39 was a large, round table set for eight. We
were the only two at it that desolate first night. To make matters worse,
the table was directly over some great thumping engine that kept our
digestive organs trembling and fluttering throughout the meal. The following
evening I cast my eyes about for another table. A few yards away in
a cozy spot out of the traffic flow and hopefully far from the engine
thump was an unoccupied table for two.
We sat down with finality, and waited anxiously as the dining room filled,
hoping we wouldnt be asked to move. My wife and I kept our eyebeams
intertwined, believing couples in love are less likely to be disturbed.
Waiters appeared to take orders. Edwin, our waiter of the previous night,
passed and looked at us forlornly. But I smiled and winked and then
he smiled. No one sat at Table 39 that night nor on any other night.
We waited.
Then our waiter appeared. He was dark-skinned with a moustache and thick
black hair tinged with strands of elegant gray. He donned his spectacles
with care and in warm, inviting tones asked what we would like on that
moonlit evening. His pen was poised and upon receiving our choices he
wrote them on his clipboard with the solemnity of an angel entering
names in the Book of Life. Clearly he perceived great wisdom in the
choices we made. He thanked us, wafted the menus out of our hands and
evaporated. Raj.
As the days slouched slowly by, amidst the aimless bustle and empty
splendor, the figure of Raj grew in importance. There was a solidity
about the man, an authenticity. He seemed free of moods. He always greeted
us cordially, as if he had been waiting for us so he could begin to
live. His cordiality came from his heart and it encircled us as we ate.
We looked forward to meals because they were superbly prepared, but
more so because Raj would serve them.
Unlike many another waiter Ive known, he had no wish to make his
mark on the proceedings. He was there to enhance our experience. And
not just us; everyone felt he was treating them with especial care.
His respect was irrespective of persons. Ive known waiters who
saw those at table to be a problem, an inconvenience, an annoyance,
a threat, a blight, the enemy, objects of scorn, targets for abuse,
an imposition. Not Raj. He seemed ready to go to the ends of the earth
for whatever we wished. Because of that we were reluctant to trouble
him. There was no Hows everything, guys? though we
knew he was taking note of our pleasure, or lack of it. Under his care
we became royalty engaged at a sacred event.
I watched him. A stocky man, of average height, moving with modest grace,
gliding from table to table, weaving his way without disturbing the
air. He anticipated each persons needs. When he placed something
on the tablea dish, a bottle, a forkit was without flourish,
without sound. It was as if he had already left before he had set it
down. Sometimes I didnt see him, he was so invisible. His service
had the quality and wonder of magic.
The unity between us was there from the start. It deepened with the
days. Our pleasure was his pleasure; our disappointment was his, too.
Once, because there were too many smokers in the vicinity of our usual
table, my wife and I navigated across the vast dining room to the far
side where the morning sun was streaming in. The waiter there was dull
and slow. Then, magically, Raj appeared, inquiring quietly if we had
all we needed. I told him the service was not anywhere near his. He
protested respectfully, Oh, no, no, dont say that. This
waiter you have is the man who trained me.
Among his innumerable virtues were these: Though obviously a man of
sensitivity and culture, he never imposed himself; he was always impeccably
dressed and groomed; he removed dishes with the same care and elegance
with which he brought them; he never fawned, was never obsequious. If
I made a joke he would laugh, genuinely, but not too much.
One time, flooded with gratitude for all that he ha d done and the way
he had done it, I told him that he treated us far too well. His response
was: How can you say that, sir? You are the most important person
here. Taken aback by the seeming flattery I looked at him for
a long moment, and I saw he meant it. He felt that way toward everyone.
Before we docked, the Cosa Ostentatia begged us to fill out a comment
form. One of the questions was would I want to go on another cruise.
I answered that I would, but only if I could be assured that Raj Bhogagi
would be my waiter.
Namaste, Maha Rajah!
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