Butterfield at Hasbrouck House | Restaurants | Hudson Valley | Chronogram Magazine
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Butterfield at Hasbrouck House 

Fresh Vision

Last Updated: 09/27/2017 3:40 pm

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And, to a chef like Abramson, growing a perfect organic squash from seed is a small miracle, but growing a successful upscale restaurant in a small village with wildly varying seasonal attitudes is no cakewalk either.

click to enlarge butterfield_124.jpg

To strike a balance, he keeps his menu welcoming and elegantly simple, foregoing the 12-course taster plus wine pairing. His favorite farm-to-table point of reference, Blue Hill at Stone Barns, serves a $258 menu dégustation nightly, but there's no call for such a thing at Butterfield. It's breezier than all that.

In the Gloaming

It's early in the dinner service on a Sunday evening, and a summer evening gloam is floating in from the garden windows and lighting up the table tops. Ice cubes clink around the bar where seasonal classic cocktails and local ciders (Esopus, Stone Ridge), kombuchas (Cooperstown), sour ales (Newburgh, Poughkeepsie) and pales and pilsners (Accord, Peekskill) are being served across a white marble bar.

click to enlarge Dinner on the patio at Butterfield
  • Dinner on the patio at Butterfield

The dining room is gently abuzz. A mother is dining with her grown daughter in the corner booth. At a round table across the room, three young women converse in Spanish. Opposite the fireplace, a couple who have lived in the area for just a few months make jovial conversation with the waitress, and two guests at the inn are dressed up to celebrate a birthday. There's a gentleman dining solo whom the staff greet familiarly and a lady with a notebook and pen, marveling over the wonderfully subtle lavender notes of a perfectly crisp-topped crème brûlée (that's me)... Abramson is still in the kitchen; unbeknownst to the guests, he short-staffed this evening and running the show.

"If I've learned anything about destination restaurants," and he has, "it's this: there is no room for error. To succeed as a destination restaurant, everything has to click into place. And it's hard work... Every morning I wake up and think 'Today I'm gonna make this place a three-Michelin star restaurant,' and by mid-afternoon, I've been at it for hours and have ten more to go and think 'OK, baby steps...But maybe next year.'"

Long days aside, Abramson couldn't wish for a better place to plant this seed. "Those days I'm in the kitchen in the morning, getting deliveries of all these amazing ingredients, it takes me back to my twenties. I had this book with all the countryside restaurants in France, and I'd circle the ones I dreamed about cooking for one day. That was the dream. And looking at this place," Abramson says, giving a nod to the smokehouse, the stone walls, and the garden, "I think I'm there."

Butterfield at Hasbrouck House

3805 Main Street, Stone Ridge

(845) 687-0887; Butterfieldstoneridge.com

Dinner: Wednesday to Sunday, 6–10pm

Brunch: Saturday and Sunday, 9am–1pm

Closed Monday and Tuesday.

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