In the Neighborhood: The Beverly, Reynolds & Reynolds, Underground Coffee & Ales | Culinary Events | Hudson Valley | Hudson Valley; Chronogram
Pin It
Favorite

In the Neighborhood: The Beverly, Reynolds & Reynolds, Underground Coffee & Ales 

Owner Erin Intonti behind the bar at Underground Coffee & Ales in Highland. Underground is minutes away from the Walkway Over the Hudson and the Hudson Valley Rail Trail, which bring streams of cyclists to the spot in warmer weather. - PHOTOS BY ROY GUMPEL
  • photos by Roy Gumpel
  • Owner Erin Intonti behind the bar at Underground Coffee & Ales in Highland. Underground is minutes away from the Walkway Over the Hudson and the Hudson Valley Rail Trail, which bring streams of cyclists to the spot in warmer weather.

Something quirky this way comes. Or some things quirky, I should say. Three relatively new establishments—the Beverly in Kingston, Reynolds & Reynolds in Woodstock, and Underground Coffee & Ales in Highland—take the cookie-cutter concepts so often associated with eateries and bend them into unexpected shapes. With the exception of industry vets Jenifer Constatine and Trip Thompson, owners of the Beverly, these bar/restaurants are run by gifted amateurs with little restaurant experience. Of course, amateurs work for love first and monetary gain second, this might explains why these places hit the mark. They weren't designed to be cash cows but instead, living, breathing, community spaces. Their shared creative DNA speaks to the rise of establishments designed to encourage lingering and neighborhood gathering. Think of it as an antidote to the rise of soulless fast-casual restaurants like Chipotle or Panera. Think of it as the slow simmering of slow casual.

There are many other places like this around the region—the late, lamented Hop in Beacon was one, Caffe Macchiato in Newburgh is another. Hudson Valley entrepreneurs seem compelled to take an established concept and bend it to their idiosyncratic will rather than hew to formal ideas about what something is expected to be. Maybe that's why we have more bakers than bankers per capita here in the Hudson Valley. Maybe that's why we're eating so well.

The Beverly

The bar at The Beverly is an Art Deco beauty, a Kingston-built Cassidy & Sons masterpiece that was the backbone of the Kozy Tavern for 80 years, a real bartender's bar. Tucked away on a tree-lined street in Midtown Kingston in the emerging Ten Broeck neighborhood, the place was always a neighborhood joint. Chef Thom Hines, who grew up a few blocks away, remembers his grandfather drinking there.

Scenes from the Beverly in Kingston.
  • Scenes from the Beverly in Kingston.

The Beverly, which opened in August 2016, encompasses three separate, interconnected spaces. There's the 80-seat banquet room, which once housed a still during Prohibition (as well as seeing later use as a roller rink). The space is available for rent, as well being used to host art events, like a recent evening of avant-garde 16mm films. The dining room, which seats about 30, will open in late January and offer a dining sanctuary. Until then, there's the barroom, with six snug booths across from the 20-seat bar. Much of what owner Trip Thompson (formerly of Rosendale's Market Market) inherited has been left intact, with design decisions made around honoring the past. (The renovation process actually uncovered an original mural behind the bar that had been obscured for many years.)

click to enlarge Scenes from the Beverly in Rosendale.
  • Scenes from the Beverly in Rosendale.

The food at the Beverly is unpretentious and prepared with a ghost of Southern influence, starting with the fried okra appetizer, served with avocado mousse and chimichurri ($10). Another good place to begin is with the fried Halloumi cheese, served with a pickle platter ($8). The Beverly does pickles very well, and they've not disappointed on several occasions. The rabbit leg with sautéed delicata squash ($18) was a simple, ingredient-first take on the dish. The rocket salad ($10) is a generous mound of arugula tossed with lemon, olive oil, and Pecorino. There are a couple of interesting takes on burgers—one with refried beans, chimichurri, and cheddar and one with caramelized onions, lardons, blue cheese sauce, and balsamic reduction, both $16—and a lentil veggie burger with curried mayo ($12) that's better than most. The vadouvan-crusted lamb sliders with tzatziki served with curried fingerling potato salad ($15) is also worth a taste. (Vadouvan is a French derivative of the Indian spice blend masala that's had shallots and garlic added to it.)

Every corner bar will soon have a cocktail program, but the Beverly delivers, featuring forgotten classics like the rye and absinthe-based Sazerac ($10); twists on better-to-be-forgotten classics like the Cosmopolitan ($10), redeemed by its house-infused citrus vodka; and the classic classics, too numerous to be named here. There's a rotating selection of beer on the three taps (usually $6), and a dozen beers in bottles and cans. (The only off note on the beverage front is the limited wine selection, something that will hopefully be remedied when the dining room opens later this month.)

Pin It
Favorite

Comments

Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

Hudson Valley Events

submit event

Chronogram on Instagram

Latest in Food & Drink

  • Fresh As It Gets: Berkshire Co-op Celebrates its Fourth Expansion
  • Fresh As It Gets: Berkshire Co-op Celebrates its Fourth Expansion

    The Berkshire Food Cooperative, which began in 1981 as a buying club of Great Barrington families, now does $8 million in annual sales with over 3,500 member-owners and about 60 employees. The co-op is preparing to move into a new custom-built location, with twice as much space for more organic produce, meat, dairy, seafood, fresh flowers, and bulk foods along with a comfier, bigger cafe.
    • May 17, 2019
  • Lola's Cafe in New Paltz Offers Locally Sourced Catering
  • Lola's Cafe in New Paltz Offers Locally Sourced Catering

    Chef Ed Kowalski founded Lola’s in Poughkeepsie in 2005, as a casual, health-supportive alternative to fast food restaurants. In 2017, he opened a second location in New Paltz that serves up Lola's signature sandwiches, salads, bowls, and homemade soups, plus offers full service catering.
    • May 15, 2019
  • Alleyway Ice Cream: A Pocket-Sized Ice Cream Parlor in Saugerties
  • Alleyway Ice Cream: A Pocket-Sized Ice Cream Parlor in Saugerties

    In 2017, down a small, nondescript alley off Partition Street in Saugerties, Julian Hom opened a shoebox artisanal ice cream shop aptly named Alleyway. Made four quarts at a time using local milk from Hudson Valley Fresh, Alleyway Ice Cream offers about six flavors a week.
    • May 10, 2019
  • More »