Sips & Bites | March 2021 | General Food & Drink | Hudson Valley | Chronogram Magazine
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Sips & Bites | March 2021 

Last Updated: 03/08/2021 12:05 pm
click to enlarge Beef carpaccio from Il Figlio Enoteca in Fishkill
  • Beef carpaccio from Il Figlio Enoteca in Fishkill

Hudson & Packard

29 Academy Street, Poughkeepsie

When you think of Detroit, the cuisine is probably not the first thing that comes to mind, but the Motor City does have its own signature style of pizza. Detroit pies are not pies at all, but rectangles with a thick, chewy, crispy crust. Shelve your New York skepticism for a moment and head to the newly opened Hudson & Packard in Poughkeepsie, where you may be surprised by the deep-dish gooey goodness chef-owner Charlie Webb is serving up. In 2019, the Michigan native and CIA alum launched the Hudson & Packard brand as a weekly pop-up based out of the Underwear Factory. This past October, he opened his brick-and-mortar, where his Detroit style combines with the elevated palate of his culinary training. Pick from selections like the Ford Funghi, a blend of roasted cremini, shiitake, and oyster mushrooms, caramelized onions; goat cheese, truffle oil, and lemon zest ($18); or the S-Class with roasted garlic Parmesan cream sauce, fresh baby spinach, artichokes, and banana peppers ($17). Hudson & Packard is open for takeout and delivery via GrubHub.

Frank's Fresh

56 Main Street, New Paltz

In 2008, a garden surplus led then-Gilded Otter line cook Frank Cardella to start experimenting with pickling and, thus, a new hobby was born. More than a decade later, SUNY New Paltz alum Cardella has turned his hobby into a profession and fulfilled his longtime dream of opening an eatery in his college town. Frank's Fresh Pickling Co. opened on December 12 in the former location of Jack's Rhythms, as a deli and provisions market. In addition to Cardella's line of jarred pickles, sauerkraut, relish, hot sauces, kimchi, spice mixes, and jams, the deli side of the operation dishes out sandwiches and salads. Some crowd favorites include the Stevie Roys, a turkey, swiss cheese sandwich with chipotle mayo, lettuce, and plum tomato on toasted rye for $6. Or, the Turn up the Beet, which has sweet pickled beets, feta cheese, plum tomato, mesclun greens, and lemon-dill aioli for $7. 

Board

55 N. Front Street, Kingston

Cheese is the star at this new Uptown Kingston shop. Board dishes up gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches, like The Capital, made with New York State sharp cheddar, tart apples, and whole grain mustard on country white ($8); or the Signature Move, featuring Comte (France's answer to Gruyere), herbed cream cheese, finocchiona salami, arugula, and hot pepper jelly ($10). There's also the obligatory tomato soup for dipping (duh) and the namesake "graze boards," which feature a mix of New York State charcuterie and cheese. These days the boards come in boxes, but they still feature brands like Jacuterie, Drunken Goat, Old Chatham Creamery, and Brooklyn Cured, as well as house made beet-pickled eggs, fresh figs, dried fruit, nuts, olives, cornichons, and chocolates.

Meat Wagon

331 Hasbrouck Avenue, Kingston

When Fleisher's Craft Butchery closed the doors of their Uptown Kingston location in 2017, the suddenly jobless butcher Stefano Diaz looked around and didn't see many options. Fast-forward four years, and the Fleisher's alum has just cut the ribbon on his whole-animal butcher shop in Midtown, filling a hole in the culinary community. At the Meat Wagon, Diaz continues to practice the ethics and whole animal butchering techniques inculcated at Fleisher's, sourcing pastured animals, raised ethically without antibiotics or hormones. With intimate knowledge of the anatomy and butchering possibilities of each animal, Diaz and his staff of two butchers are able to recommend lesser-known cuts that match customers' needs, or custom trim a cut to your specifications. Leave the grocery list at home, and go chat with the neighborhood butcher. You might bring home something new.

Il Figlio Enoteca

992 Main Street, Fishkill

In late January, the doors finally opened to Il Figlio Enoteca after a yearlong renovation. The beautiful tiled floor ties pale blue accents to cognac leather booths, creating an elegant, amber-lit atmosphere for Italian fine dining. The menu opens with classics like burrata, served here with delicata squash, pecans, sage, and toasted ciabatta ($15); and angus beef carpaccio served with truffle aioli, topped with Grana Padano and crispy brussel sprout leaves ($15). Or how about mussels with Calabrian chili, garlic, and tomato butter ($14)? If you're in the mood for pasta, try the hearty egg-pasta pappardelle served with Tuscan-style duck ragu, winter herbs, tomato, and Grana Padano ($22). Secondis include veal, chicken, fish, steak, and duck. A standout is the sautéed Mediterranean branzino, served with French lentils, roasted mushrooms, and a shallot and green herb salsa verde. Il Figlio is currently only open for reservations and take-out. 

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