“We’re always looking for new things to do and new ways to expand the brand,” says Phoenicia Diner’s director of operations Courtney Malsatzki, whose job, specifically, is overseeing both the diner and all those non-restaurant parts of the business. The roadside diner, which has reached near astronomical fame for combining vintage charm and diner classic with modern preparation and local sourcing sensibilities, is often approached about collaborations. But it’s not often they find a fit.
Yet stars—and ethos—aligned when son-father duo Ryan and Rich Gillette (formerly of Gillette Creamery in Gardiner) reached out about Phoencia Diner running the food operation at their forthcoming Kingston brewery, Blue Duck Brewing Company. “We really instantly loved the culture they wanted to create—the locality and the community outreach aspect, which is something we do a lot of,” Malsatzki says. “Anyone we do business with, we want to have those values, that same core ethos. We loved their story, and we’ve done a lot of pancake popups in Kingston. I think this is a great area for us to expand to.”
When Blue Duck opens in the old Daily Freeman building later this summer, the diner will be operating within the brewery as Phoenicia Diner Canteen. The Canteen’s menu will combine some diner favorites with fun, locally sourced pub food. Think juicy smash burgers, beer-battered onion rings, “crushable appetizers,” and yes, the beloved PD reuben and its vegetarian beet counterpart. Weekends, the brewery will open early for brunch to dish up Phoenicia Diner’s famed pancakes and other hearty fare. “So much of the Phoenicia Diner brand is the way the current location looks. Mike [Cioffi] did a great job preserving that 1960s feel,” Malsatzki says. “But this is going to be inside a modern, beautiful brewery. That’s why we added ‘canteen’ to the name. We don’t want people to Google it and then come in expecting French toast on a Tuesday morning.”The spot, on Hurley Avenue, is right by the new rail trail and Overlook Bicycles’ outpost. While the construction focus shifts to front-of-house, the brewing side is already operational with the first brews already in process under header brewer Ryan.
Ryan had his introduction to the world of beer in his teens, working as an unpaid intern at Keegan Ales in Kingston during summers and winter break. “Tommy [Keegan] was nice enough to let me run around and help,” he says. “That’s where I fell in love with brewing.” He formalized his education at the World Brewing Academy in Chicago and then in Munich, before launching a career that brought him to work at big names like New Belgium Brewing in Colorado, Trillium Brewing, and Threes Brewing. “Similar to other trades, the only way to learn and get better is to go do it and do it at breweries that do it well,” Ryan says. “I’ve been bouncing around for the last 10 years, and I’m happy to call Kingston home again.”
Given Ryan’s training, Blue Duck Brewing will specialize in German styles like pilsner and lager. “We’ll be focused on carrying that process and those traditional styles through but with local ingredients to create something our own,” he says. The 15-barrel brewing system was custom-built in Wisconsin by Quality Tank Solutions. At the time of opening, Ryan plans to have five or six styles on tap, but eventually all 13 taplines will be in operation, rotating house brews, collab beers made with other breweries, as well as draft cocktails and wine. The cider selection will focus on Hudson Valley products, while the full bar will serve New York State craft spirits. “Philosophically, I believe in collaboration—sharing knowledge, process, raw, materials, and resources,” Ryan says. “So some beer collabs are already in the works.”
With the farm brewery license, the current requirement is for the beers to source 60 percent of certain ingredients from New York State. Ryan has opted to go with 100% New York ingredients in both core beers, with plans to “sink our teeth into the ag and experiential side a little farther down the road.”
“Ryan had the vision of sliding a 100 percent New York beer down a 100 percent New York bar,” Rich says, with a note of fatherly pride in his voice. So they cut down a five-foot wide red oak tree on the family’s Grahamsville property, where Rich grew up playing in summers and on weekends. “We aligned with Phoenicia Diner because they value reinvesting locally—both philanthropically and economically,” Ryan says. “That tree was grown less than 50 miles from here, kilned 60 miles from here, and milled under two miles from here.” Three more 10-foot communal tables are also being made with lumber from the same tree.
“We’d like to be able to bring people together in a nice setting,” Ryan says. “And we want to be able to tell a story.” With iconic local businesses, a commitment to reinvestment in the community, quality food and drink, this new venture has all the ingredients for a good story.
The brewery will feature both indoor and outdoor seating and a dual ordering system for beer and food. “There aren’t enough places in town where you can reliably get a good burger and a beer during the week,” Malsatzki says. “We’re hoping to fill that void.” Online ordering will speed up the weekday lunch rush process, both for people hoping to eat in and pick up. “We’ve already been talking to local purveyors and opening accounts for the new business,” Malsatzki says. “Aside from the regular and brunch menus, the specials will feature whatever is in season or what new products are coming out. All our ideals and style will stay the same.”
For now, the tentative plan is for the brewery to be open Thursdays through Tuesdays. With permitting and construction, it’s difficult to pin down a specific date. “We’ll open when we get our ducks in a row,” Rich says, with the realism and poise of someone who’s long been in business. With it’s central location and big parking lot, Blue Duck has plans to be a venue for events ranging from live music to Oktoberfest.
“Having my own place was always the pipe dream, but opening a brewery is a pretty big lift,” Ryan says. “I wasn’t sure how or where or when, but the stars aligned with Rich being both available and willing to jump in with two feet, so here we are.”
Follow Blue Duck Brewing and PD Canteen on Instagram for updates on the grand opening.
