German cuisine is comfort food—rich, hearty, and flavorful. And while most German-American restaurants tend to emphasize rustic Bavarian dishes and decor, Franzel, Goshen’s new modern German restaurant, shines a spotlight on the food and culture on the historical territory of Baden, where chef/owner Franz Brendle’s family is originally from.
“I’m the first generation here, but growing up, I spent a lot of time visiting my cousins in Germany, eating German food all the time, and cooking with my mother, grandmother, and great aunt,” Brendle says. “So this food is very important to me.”
A graduate from the Institute for Culinary Education in Manhattan, Brendle has made a mark on the Hudson Valley restaurant scene over the past two decades. He owned Zagat-rated fine dining establishment Nina in Middletown for 20 years, opened award-winning Pharmacy Kitchen and Bar in Goshen about five years ago, and ran Craft 47, which closed and is now the space where Franzel opened in October this year. “It felt like the right time to do German food,” Brendle says. “I was uncertain of the demand for it—even my friends thought I was crazy—but since we opened we’ve been very busy. There aren’t a lot of German-focused restaurants here and people are steadily coming around.”
Inside the restaurant, Brendle pays homage to both his familial history and contemporary German culture. Unlike the beloved Mountain Brauhaus in Gardiner, a local staple since the 1950s, you won’t find dirndl-clad staff (although servers have the option to dress in garment, if they choose). Instead, the vibe is decidedly nostalgic. The historic building, built in the 1800s, honors Brendle’s family, from the photos and heirlooms on the walls to an interior mercantile named after his grandmother. “We have a little store set up with imported German products like chocolates, candies, spices, and holiday items,” he explains. “The store is dedicated to my grandmother, who ran a grocery and general store started by my great-grandmother, until she retired at age 82.” Oma’s Laden, or “Grandma’s Store,” is located in one corner of the restaurant.
In the dining room, the menu features a greatest hits of German classics: schnitzels, wurst, and the like. The most popular entree, however, is a sauerbraten ($29): marinated and braised Angus beef brisket, rich brown gravy, potato dumplings, and red cabbage. “It takes at least three to five days to marinate with a long cook time to follow, but there’s almost a cult of how many people love this sauerbraten and come here specifically looking for it. We didn’t expect it to be that popular,” Brendle says.
Additional popular picks include rouladen ($30) made of thinly sliced Angus beef, rolled with a pickle, bacon, and caramelized onions and then slow-braised, served with rich braising sauce, spätzle, and red cabbage; and schweine haxen ($27), a slow-roasted crispy pork shank with beer pan sauce, potato dumplings, and red cabbage.
Starters include a variety of light bites like flammküchen a German flatbread with quark (fresh cheese), onions, and bacon lardons ($13), or the Wurst Käse Scenario comprised of various cold sliced sausage, cured meats, artisanal cheeses, gherkins, and lingonberry preserves with bread ($24). “Overall we aim to source locally and in-season as much as possible, and we make many items in-house like our own pretzels with imported flour from Germany,” Brendle says.
Desserts are just as decadent; you’ll find standards like black forest cake or apple strudel, or more cultural options like kaiserschmarnn, a shredded soufleed German pancake sprinkled with powdered sugar and plated with lingenberry preserves and applesauce. And then there is the spaghetti ice—vanilla ice cream pressed like spaghetti, drizzled with strawberry sauce and chocolate shavings.
At the bar, there’s a heavy focus on German beers with local craft brews mixed in, wines from Germany and Austria, and imported spirits like Schnapps, German brandy, and more. While it hasn’t been a popular pick yet, you’ll also find Das Boot. The traditional beerhall game is designed for a group, during which they share a two-liter glass shaped like a boot full of beer, with the point of the game to neither spill nor set the glass down while finishing it. The cost of Das Boot depends on what type of beer you fill it with, but you’ll also have to drop a refundable $150 glass deposit. But even with the option to play, Brendle says that the restaurant overall is not rowdy like a beerhall; this is just a fun nod to the culture.
“We’re very welcoming to families, friend groups, and date nights,” he says. “This is food I grew up with and love, I’m just glad to share it with others.”
Franzel is open from Tuesday through Thursday from 12-9pm; Friday and Saturday from 12-10pm; and Sunday from 2-8pm.
