Levon Helm Credit: Fionn Reilly

Itโ€™s the smile. Thatโ€™s what really gets you. Almost as much as the incredible songs. Or the fluid, flawless musicianship. Or even the coarse, honey-ladled grit of the voice. The smile is wide, full, bright. It floods the big, log-walled room with pure, dazzling luminescence, like a signal that the angels are about to appear from on high. And the smile is contagious, finding itself mirrored across the faces of everyone else in the spaceโ€”the audience, the musicians, even the scrambling, focused soundmen.

The smile belongs to Levon Helm, one of this countryโ€™s most precious cultural treasures, who tonight at one of the Midnight Ramble sessions that take place a few times a month at the erstwhile Band memberโ€™s Woodstock home and studio is doing exactly what he was putโ€”and keptโ€”on this Earth to do: make great American music. Some of the greatest American music that ever was, in fact. And anyone who knows about the difficult life valleys Helm, 68, has triumphed over in the last few years, and about the glorious heights heโ€™s now experiencing through his careerโ€™s ongoing renaissance, canโ€™t help but be awed by the deep portent of the manโ€™s seemingly insurmountable grin. Which probably just makes them smile all the more themselves, really.

โ€œWell, sir, when you have everything taken away, youโ€™re just so glad to get it back. Which is what Iโ€™ve been so very fortunate enough to do,โ€ says the humble but hearty native Arkansan. โ€œIt just makes playing so much more joyful. Every opportunity to play just means so much more than the last one.โ€

Helmโ€™s years with The Band are well chronicled elsewhere, perhaps no better than in his 1993 autobiography This Wheelโ€™s on Fire. In the book he talks about the lean, vagabond times of the groupโ€™s early period, when the members were โ€œliving the music.โ€ But since those days, his life has echoed the music in other, more catastrophic ways, ways that recall the tragedy-laced folk ballads of his Southern youth.

The first blow came in 1986, 10 years after The Bandโ€™s demise, when Helmโ€™s good friend and band mate, pianist Richard Manuel, took his own life. Next, in 1991, a fire at the beloved โ€œbarnโ€ studio Helm had built in 1976 burned the structure almost to the ground. And when Helm was diagnosed with throat cancer in 1996 it looked as though, if the disease didnโ€™t kill him, the voice of the man who sang lead and played drums and mandolin on โ€œThe Weight,โ€ โ€œThe Night They Drove Old Dixie Down,โ€ โ€œRag Mama Rag,โ€ and other classics would be silenced forever. But the heartbreak didnโ€™t end there: In 1999, Band bassist Rick Danko passed away at the age of 56. With limited funds thanks largely to unfairly structured royalty deals and unable to do the film and voiceover work that had helped to pay the bills, Helm found himself in the precarious position of having to balance the costs of rebuilding his home and workplace with those of the medications and procedures needed to save his voiceโ€”and his life.

Understandably, he chose to put most of his available cash into the latter. And, after surgery and 28 intensive radiation treatments at Sloan-Kettering in Manhattan, not only has Helm beaten the cancer but his voice has regained โ€œabout 70 percentโ€ of its famed knotty-pine majesty. โ€œIt still might take a notion to go south on me some nights, but itโ€™s getting better than it was,โ€ he says. When told that in some ways he sounds even better than he does on some of his older records, that even Tom Waits might be happy to have the same level of gruff character in his voice, the singer laughs. โ€œYeah, well on some gigs I wish mine had a little less character, thank you!โ€

But with Helmโ€™s health back in the fold, there was still the mortgage company to satisfy. While in recovery mode he needed to get his voice back in shape and pay down his debts, but touring was out of the question. So instead of taking the show to the fans, he took a stroke of inspiration from the freewheeling rent parties of his childhood and invited the fans to come hang out at his house. Since 2004, Helm has opened part of his home to the public for the now famous and intimate โ€œparlor sessionsโ€ known as his Midnight Rambles. Facilitated by a large crew that calls itself Team Levon, the medicine showlike events sell out weeks in advance and have featured surprise guest appearances by Dr. John, Elvis Costello, Emmylou Harris, Medeski, Martin, and Wood, Nick Lowe, Allen Toussaint, and others.

Tonight, however, before Helm gets to do all of his pickinโ€™, poundinโ€™, and grinninโ€™, before he and his bandโ€”singer-guitarists Larry Campbell and Teresa Williams, bassist Michael Merritt, horn men Steven Bernstein, Jay Collins, and Erik Lawrence, keyboardist Brian Mitchell, and Helmโ€™s daughter, Olabelle vocalist and multi-instrumentalist Amy Helm, as well as a cast of guest playersโ€”are ready to Ramble, thereโ€™s quite a bit of behind-the-scenes lead-up action that goes on. Two hours earlier, after following the long and winding driveway to the studio and being checked in at the gate, one enters the downstairs reception area, which is populated by staff members wearing sweatshirts bearing the legend HELMLAND SECURITY over crossed drumsticks. At the merch booth, CDs, DVDs, T-shirts, and other items are laid out, while nearby tables are stocked with free snacks and beverages, which will be generously amended to by the many arriving Ramble-goers who bring store-bought and homemade food to share. From here, itโ€™s a straight zip through a short hallway lined with framed photos, posters, and newspaper and magazine articles and up the stairs into the main studio.

Despite the rows of folding chairs and the preponderance of instruments and sound gear set up in the stage area at the opposite end, the space feels more like a massive living room than a recording studio, thanks to its high ceiling and tall stone hearth. Itโ€™s the perfect setting for the music of Helmโ€™s band, a rich, earthy blend of the best elements of rhythm and blues, country, soul, jazz, gospel, and rock โ€™nโ€™ roll. The heartbreaking harmonies of Williams, Amy Helm, and frequent Bob Dylan side man Campbell are moving enough, but watching the leader belt out the leads and drive it all with such unbounded zeal is the real joy, bringing to mind the words of Ronnie Hawkins, Helmโ€™s pre-Band leader in rockabilly legends Ronnie and the Hawks: โ€œLevon played more drums with less licks than any drummer in the world. And he could make it sound right.โ€ It sure sounds right tonight. Really, itโ€™s safe to say that music just doesnโ€™t get any better. โ€œJust being around Levon elicits your truest self, musically and otherwise,โ€ says Williams. โ€œHeโ€™s so utterly sincere, he just makes everybody feel like theyโ€™re the only person in the room.โ€

And despite the magnitude of the operation, the big guest stars, and the packed houses, Helm and company still manage to keep it all down-home at the sessions. โ€œNo matter how big things get, we never want the Ramble to turn into some big, impersonal machine,โ€ says Helmโ€™s manager, Barbara Oโ€™Brien, who oversees the events and works for the Ulster County Sheriffโ€™s Office by day. โ€œThe Ramble is an extension of Levon [himself], and we try to never lose sight of that.โ€

From out of the Ramble sessions has come the shockingly great Dirt Farmer (Vanguard Records), Helmโ€™s first solo studio album in 25 years. Produced by Campbell and Amy Helm, the record is dedicated to Helmโ€™s parents and marks a return to the old-time tunes they raised him on. โ€œTough times can make you more reflective, and make you long for better and simpler times,โ€ says Helm. โ€œSo I guess thatโ€™s what led me back to those songs, which were already old when I heard them as a boy. I wanted to get back to the community feeling the music used to have.โ€

But no matter what tangents Helmโ€™s music has taken over the years, it always boils down to the blues. So even though Dirt Farmer revisits country-folk chestnuts like the traditionals โ€œThe Girl I Left Behind,โ€ โ€œThe Blind Child,โ€ and the Carter Familyโ€™s โ€œSingle Girl, Married Girl,โ€ a steady, undeniable blues feeling runs throughout. (And the down-and-dirty reading of J. B. Lenoirโ€™s โ€œFeelinโ€™ Good,โ€ with its refrain of โ€œAll the money in the world spent on feelinโ€™ good,โ€ must certainly hit home in light of the cost of prescription meds and radiation treatments.) โ€œTo me, the blues are the ABCs of music,โ€ maintains Helm. โ€œIf you can play a Louis Jordan tune right, you can go on and play pretty much anything else from there.โ€ Dirt Farmer has been nominated for a Grammy (for Best Traditional Folk Album), and, in a curious coincidence, The Band is being presented with a Grammy for Lifetime Achievement this month in Los Angeles.

Helm is also about to be a grandfatherโ€”for the second time in the space of just a few months. Not only is Amy due in March, but Muddy and Lucy, Helmโ€™s beloved hounds, gave birth to a litter of eight pups in December. โ€œWeโ€™d already had Muddy for about three years when I was down in Louisiana to shoot some scenes for The Electric Mist, a movie that Tommy Lee Jones is directing,โ€ Helm recalls. โ€œLucy was a stray that the makeup girl found in the road, and when we brought her back to the set Muddy and her just really took a liking to each other.โ€ In addition to the forthcoming The Electric Mist, Helm has acted in Jonesโ€™s The Three Burials of Melquiades Estrada (2005) and in Coal Minerโ€™s Daughter (1980), The Right Stuff (1983), Fire Down Below (1997), Feeling Minnesota (1996), and a full resumeโ€™s worth of other notable films.

Renewed health, a great new album, a new movie, newborn puppies, a grandchild and possible multiple Grammys on the wayโ€”itโ€™s not hard to see why Helm is smiling as heโ€™s being interviewed. But when heโ€™s on stage, making that great, great music, the smile just seems to twinkle a little bit more. โ€œItโ€™s been said that music is the language of heaven,โ€ Helm says. โ€œAnd I believe thatโ€™s right.โ€

And tonight, under the bright, full moon and the warm, wooden eaves of Helmโ€™s studio, one gets the strong feeling that someone in heaven is indeed listening. And smiling.

This monthโ€™s Midnight Ramble sessions take place at Levon Helm Studios in Woodstock on February 2 and 23. The Levon Helm Band performs at the Beacon Theater in New York on March 7 and 8. www.levonhelm.com.

Peter Aaron is the arts editor for Chronogram.

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