Beacon’s new Lyonshare Public House plays like a greatest hits album, with the tracks all drawing from various facets of owner Bud Schmeling’s life. “It’s kind of the culmination of my 35 years in hospitality,” he says.
Take the typewriters and books displayed in nooks above the bar, a nod to Schmeling’s other passions–reading and writing. He studied literature, earning his Bachelor’s at the Virginia Military Institute and Master’s at Brooklyn College, where he was under the tutelage of Beat icon Allen Ginsberg. Schmeling still serves as senior writer at Victory Journal, a sports and culture magazine.
Schmeling’s early years as a bartender have shaped the cocktail-focused bar program at Lyonshare, which opened in October. His experience opening Black Betty in Brooklyn and developing the venue into a cornerstone of Williamsburg’s music scene is why there’s a baby grand piano standing in the corner and a growing calendar of jazz nights.
Schmeling’s decades in restaurant management explain why service and staffing are a top priority. His 13 years helming legendary Peter Luger Steakhouse as manager are a reason why the New York Strip ($44) and 32-ounce porterhouse for two ($120) at Lyonshare are both char-grilled to perfection, served with a garlic confit, steak butter, and a classic savory sauce.
The emphasis on oysters ($36 a dozen) and inventive menu can be traced to his experience at other top-notch bistros, like his recent stint at Gage and Tollner, which the New York Times included in the top 50 of the city’s restaurants.“The menu is all what I’ve loved along my journey, all classic American bistro,” Schmeling says.
Those favorites range from a half-fried chicken with a creamy slaw and biscuits ($29); a butterhead lettuce salad tossed with blue cheese buttermilk dressing, bacon, and marinated tomatoes ($15); and a decadent mac-and-cheese ($13) to a bowl of “Penicillin” matzo ball soup ($14).
The menu, compiled with chef Adam Shepard, also features golden tilefish served with French lentils and brussel sprout salad ($31); a mixed grain risotto starring butternut squash, lemon, and herbs ($26); and a dry-aged, custom-blended burger topped with American cheese and onion, complete with fries and a pickle ($24) .
Vegetable fritters are composed of crispy hen of the woods mushrooms and brussel sprouts, served with chili sauce ($13). Sides include curry cauliflower with herb dressing, sauteed spinach with garlic, mashed potatoes, and biscuits with honey and butter (all $12). Sweet tooths can choose between warm chocolate chip cookies baked-to-order, an apple tart with salted caramel and ice cream, a root beer float served in a frosty mug, or two scoops of ice cream (each $12).
Brunch debuted at Lyonshare last weekend. Offerings include a Beacon Benedict with guanciale, brussel sprouts, onion jam, and hollandaise ($19) and a French omelet with baby greens and a shallot vinaigrette ($16). Or opt for the works,with the Full Beacon combining two poached eggs, pork and beans, grits, tomato jam, toast, and honey butter ($24).
Tavern a la Beacon
Schmeling, a Long Island native who moved to Beacon in September, had been hankering to have his own place again ever since Black Betty closed in 2009. “I knew I wanted to get back to it,” he says. “It was just a matter of when and where.”
The clouds ended up parting in Beacon. “I loved the Catskills and the Hudson Valley,” Schmeling says. “And I was ready for a change.” The waterfront city seemed like a perfect place to build his dream of a boutique hotel-meets-bistro-meets-bar, a neighborhood hangout that feels elevated yet cozy.
He purchased Max’s on Main and got the keys on April 30. “It was a very beloved neighborhood spot for 18 years,” he says, adding that the building’s bar history goes back even further. “It’s always been a spot, and I saw the potential to do what I wanted to do.”
In the past, the upstairs apartments were, in fact, previously used as a hotel, and Schmeling plans to restore the two top floors to create overnight accommodations and hopes to begin construction by the end of the year.
The concept for Lyonshare was inspired by the traditional public houses of yore, the British taverns offering a warm meal and a pint or two to a weary traveler, who would find a room waiting upstairs. Schmeling envisioned Lyonshare becoming a similar center of activity, a well-loved watering hole and meeting spot for the town, as well as a destination for visitors.
To begin bringing his dreams to life, the building had to be transformed. The exterior brick was whitewashed and the interior gutted. The kitchen and bathrooms were completely renovated, but Schmeling stayed true to the basic layout. Doors open to a long, luxurious bar. Walk to the back, turn to the left and find the dining room full of tables.
“I wanted it to be airy and inviting, but also warm, sexy, and comfortable,” Schmeling says. That translates to bright marble, whitewashed brick walls, dark wooden furniture, and plenty of brass touches, including the vintage doorknobs.
Artist Steve Keene painted the portrait of John Lyon, namesake of the establishment, hanging near the entrance. Lyon captained a ferry on the Hudson River for more than seven decades, never missing a day of work and also managed the Smithsonian Hotel in Nyack in 1875.
“I was doing research on the area, looking for a name, and came across an article about this guy,” Schmeling recalls. “He sounded pretty fascinating.” Schmeling, who loves a good story, was drawn to this character. He also liked the sound of the name and the play on words, forming Lyonshare.
But the idea of the lion’s share–the biggest and best portion–also seems fitting for Schmeling’s dream come true, the result of distilling all of his experiences down to his exact right mix. “Now, I’m getting to do what I want to do, and it’s been great,” he says.
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What a great night !!! The vibe and atmosphere were over the top. Didn’t want to leave . appreciate the attentive service by a welcoming staff. Keep that mac & cheese coming.!!’