Atop a quiet hill in Accord, where the Catskill Mountains frame a landscape of rolling pastures and cattle grazing lazily, two farmers are weaving their stories into the fabric of the land. Barton and Becky Collins Brooks are the proud owners of Catskill Wagyu at Hilltop Farm, dedicated to raising high-quality, grass-fed beef. For the couple, this 56-acre farm is more than just a property—it’s a living, breathing extension of their dreams where they have built a life together. Their journey is one of hard work, persistence, a deep connection to the land, and a commitment to a better food system—one pasture at a time.
Becky and Barton’s partnership is the heart of Hilltop Farm, blending their strengths to create a model of sustainable farming that prioritizes healthy soil, ethical practices, and community engagement. Barton, with his background in dairy farming on his grandfather’s land (which he purchased at age 18) and a natural knack for building, has crafted the farmhouse and barns from the ground up, while Becky, with her business acumen and passion for the local agricultural community, keeps operations running smoothly. “We pull in the yoke together,” Becky says. Every decision, from the care of their cattle to their approach to local food networks, reflects their shared commitment to nurturing their natural and social ecosystems.
“We believe in hard work,” she adds. “We are stewards of the land. Farming and food are our passion. Watching people savor what we grow, raise, and create satisfies us deep in our souls.”
The farm operates on a “closed-loop system,” meaning resources generated on-farm are recirculated within the operation, minimizing external inputs. The cattle eat hay grown directly on the farm, and the manure from the 60-head herd is then collected and used to fertilize the fields, ensuring the soil remains healthy and productive. This process creates a healthy ecosystem, evident in the vast biome of beneficial insects, earthworms, and snow fleas that appear in late winter—proof of a farm that is as good for the land as it is for the animals.
The farm’s flagship operation specializes in Wagyu beef, known for its rich marbling and exceptional flavor. Their herd is closed, meaning every animal is born, raised, and cared for on Hilltop Farm. They breed from the Tajima line, the same breed that produces the world-famous Japanese Kobe beef. The cattle are grass-fed and finished on grain to enhance the marbling. They graze freely, living as naturally as possible within the bounds of modern farming. The meat is high in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, similar to wild-caught salmon. The farm’s breeding practices, including artificial insemination, have produced a nearly purebred Wagyu.
For Becky, sustainability is about more than just the environment. “It’s also about the economics of farming. It has to be viable for farmers to continue,” she says. This means ensuring the farm can feed people, support the local community, and sustain itself financially. “This farm is part of a reemerging local agricultural economy,” Becky says. “It feeds people who might not otherwise have access to local, sustainably grown food, and it contributes to a healthy, natural environment.”
Farming is not just a business—it’s about sharing the fruits of their labor. Hilltop Farm practices community-minded agriculture. Recognizing the importance of accessible, high-quality food, Becky and Barton sell directly from the farm to their customers, offering everything from premium beef to more affordable “cull cows” (aging, infertile, or male cows) they donate to local food pantries. “All people deserve to be fed well,” Becky says. “It’s about being part of something larger. We’re woven into the fabric of our community, and they’re woven into our farm, and that feels so good.”
When loyal customers share their enjoyment of the farm’s products, it validates the hard work that goes into farming. Becky recently received a text from a friend who had one of her chickens for Rash Hashanah dinner. The next morning, the friend praised it as one of the most flavorful and juiciest chickens they’d ever had. “Farming is hard. We work hard and our bodies hurt, but when we get one text like that, it makes everything—every sleepless night, every tired muscle—worth it,” Becky says.
The Collins Brooks’ commitment to the land extends beyond raising Wagyu cattle. They are active in local farming initiatives, including the Rondout Valley Growers Association, a nonprofit committed to celebrating, educating, and advocating about the importance of local farming in central Ulster County. The organization connects a network of 119 local farmers, offers micro-grants, aids in marketing, and acts as a conduit of information for legislation and policy through its weekly newsletter, Farmer to Farmer. “The Rondout Valley Growers have been invaluable for us and a lot of other farmers,” Becky says.
They also host farming apprentices through the Anne Saxelby Legacy Fund (ASLF) agricultural training program, which places young people on small, sustainable farms across the US for one month each summer. Apprentices work hands-on with farmers, learning the ropes before pursuing their own careers in sustainable agriculture. One of Hilltop Farm’s past apprentices got a job milking cows at a raw milk dairy, another plans a career in food science, and another wants to counsel children, extolling the virtues of sustainably produced food whenever and wherever she can.
“We love hosting these young people. The future of small-scale farming depends on them,” Becky says. “If we can send ambassadors of sustainable agriculture out into the world, understanding where their food comes from, the work it takes to get it to the table, and the passion farmers have for their vocation, that feels like the definition of success to us.”
Looking ahead, the Collins Brooks plan to open a micro-dairy and raw milk cheesemaking creamery, though they’ve faced challenges with the cost and time involved. Becky is a “farmstead cheesemaker,” using milk from her own cows to create fresh and aged cheeses on-site. She makes cheddar, feta, ricotta, mozzarella, and cheese curds (which they snack on like candy). Their dairy herd is small, with just four cows, but they don’t plan to expand. “We believe staying small, actually tiny, allows us to really enjoy what we are doing while making noteworthy items that honor the quality of our cows’ milk,” Becky says.
At the end of the day, as the cattle return to the barn and the sun sets over the hills, Becky and Barton reflect on the life they’ve built at Hilltop Farm. Their work is relentless but deeply rewarding. “It’s achingly beautiful here,” Becky says, “and it’s such a gift to be able to do this work, here, in this place.”
“We are not owners of this land, although we own it; we are stewards of it,” she says. “We look forward with great hope and a large dose of pragmatism and reality, that this place could remain a farm, or at the very least forever open. I hope future generations will see and feel it like we do.”
