Looking for an excuse to hit the open road this October? There’s no better pairing than a leisurely autumn drive through the Catskill Mountains that ends with a thoughtful meal made with ingredients sourced from the region’s bounty. Thanks to a rich farming history that has seeded the ground for a robust farm-to-table restaurant scene, Delaware County in the western Catskill Mountains offers a diverse tapestry of eateries and craft beverage tap rooms that are worth the drive all on their own.
With the region’s mountain peaks and rolling river valleys bursting into dazzling color this month and the peaceful beauty of the winter landscape close behind, travelers who set out on a culinary pilgrimage are rewarded with a feast for the eyes as well.
We’ve put together a drive through Delaware County paired with dining destinations that provide a taste for what the region’s creative culinary minds are dishing up.
Fleischmanns
Route 28 is a meandering stretch of byway that offers a one-of-a-kind tour through the majesty of Catskill Park. Follow Route 28 from Kingston to the village of Fleischmanns just over the Delaware County line and discover a quiet community dotted with stately Victorian homes tucked into the forested mountainside.
Opened this July, The Print House is a new “vinyl music bar” located in a c.1905 building on Main Street Fleischmanns that once housed independent publisher Purple Mountain Press. Stop by for afternoon brunch or dinner for signature cocktails, wine, and beer, plus hearty bites like huevos rancheros, a locally sourced cheese board, meatballs, and rustic flatbreads—plus live music from visiting artists and an extensive vinyl record soundtrack.
Margaretville
Just 10 minutes past Fleischmanns on Route 28 is the bustling town of Margaretville. Travelers will wind past the Bush Kill Stream, where eagles are often seen perched in the trees or soaring above the water hunting for their next meal. With plenty of businesses, restaurants, and independent stores stacked along its inviting Main Street, Margaretville offers a wonderfully full day of shop-hopping.
Looking for a spot to cozy up in Margaretville for an hour or two? Seek out Zada’s Speakeasy & Music Club, where the owners are combining their French and Southern heritages into a sultry, spirits-forward cocktail list that pairs perfectly with nibbles like a cheese and charcuterie board, a smoked salmon board, and a variety of classic croques (or French grilled cheese sandwiches) and live music from local acts.
Up for an exploratory wine sipping session? Head over to the recently opened Oda Wine Garden, which specializes in ancient world wines and Balkan small plates.
Andes
As travelers continue on Route 28 from Margaretville to Andes, the road traverses through beautiful cut mountain passes and wide fields. Just before Andes is the sign for the Palmer Hill Trail. Pull off into the parking lot for a jaw-dropping scenic overlook of the mountains to the east, or get out of the car and enjoy an easy hike that loops through old farmland and forest.
Andes’ charming Main Street offers a variety of options for the culinary-minded adventurers.
Start with a pop into the sumptuously decorated restored barn at Wayside Cider, which has been sourcing wild and abandoned homestead apple trees to make its cider since 2014. Try its ciders by the glass, as well as a full bar of other local beverages and spirits alongside a rotating menu of small bites, then cozy up on the outdoor patio or by the fire pit.
For a meal to refuel, check out the Andes Hotel. The eclectic, comfort food menu offers everything from classic wings and spinach artichoke dip to a fig jam and goat cheese flatbread to a crave-worthy smashburger, chicken parm, baby back ribs, and peanut butter pie.
Hamden
After Andes, Route 28 continues along a bucolic stretch of farmland with gently rolling mountains on either side until descending into the populated college town of Delhi. Once there, take NY-10 southwest to Hamden. This scenic drive weaves along the West Branch of the mighty fly-fishing mecca of the Delaware River and offers gorgeous glimpses of the river valley along the way.
With a history that dates back to the 1840s, the newly renovated Hamden Inn & Lounge in Hamden offers a heaping helping of old-school charm and classic architectural details. Located on the first floor is its restaurant and bar, which offers up locally sourced takes on classic bistro fare ranging from a beloved Cobb salad to fish and chips to the vegetarian “*Not* a Fried Chicken Sandwich.”
Be sure to stop for provisions at Hamden General Store, and if there’s room for another nibble or two, an elevated take on a classic bodega sandwich from Tiny’s.
Walton
Continue just 10 minutes southwest along Route 10—soaking in even more of those streamside and valley views—to reach the town of Walton. Just off the main thoroughfare are architectural gems like the Walton Theater and the Castle on the Delaware that harken back in time.
For old-school comfort food and bar fare—from pizza to wings, burgers, brisket, and more—check out Danny’s and Packin Heat. For a meal that comes with a heaping helping of ambiance, head to Rainbow Lodge. Perched on the edge of an eight-acre pond with panoramic mountain views, the laid back menu focuses on steakhouse fare with Portuguese influence.
Franklin
Instead of heading southwest onto Route 10 in Delhi, travelers also have the option to head northwest and take a scenic drive along Route 14 to Franklin near the county border.
Route 14 weaves and winds past the small and gorgeous Spring Lake, with forests and fields appearing intermittently. The road then passes through the quaint town of Treadwell before meeting up with NY 357 for the last two-plus miles to Franklin.
Once in Franklin, make a beeline to The Tulip & The Rose, a restaurant Vice Munchies once described as “the type of place you could drive by for years and have no idea of the vivacity until you walk inside.” Started by members of the Osmanli Dergah, a Sufi Muslim group that calls Delaware County its home, the restaurant serves international food focusing on Malaysian, Indian, Turkish, Thai, and American recipes.
This is just a taste of the many sights, sounds, and flavors of Delaware County. For more inspiration on where to go and what to do, visit Greatwesterncatskills.com.
Certainly there is much to admire and enjoy on Rt 28 but you made a big omission by not including Rt. 30. From Hancock to Grand Gorge, Catskill Scenic Route 30 follows the East Branch of the Delaware River through 5 towns; Hancock, Colchester, Andes, Middletown, Roxbury and their many villages and hamlets. Roxbury is a beautiful village with many wonderful places to stop, shop and savor local flavors and products, tasty meals and beautiful scenic views as well as a picturesque holstein dairy farm just outside the village.