Haymarket Catskills sits in an unlikely but deeply fitting home: a 150-year-old former church in Hensonville, a hamlet of Windham. The building’s stained-glass windows still bear local family names, a reminder that this has long been a place where people gathered. That sense of continuity—repurposed rather than erased—is central to owner Anne Stowell’s vision for the coffee shop and cafe.
Stowell opened Haymarket in September after decades spent in marketing, a career she describes as rewarding but ultimately exhausting. The idea for a place like this, she says, had been simmering for 20 years: a comfortable, welcoming spot centered on good food, thoughtful sourcing, and community. The pandemic accelerated that long-held impulse. “I finally got to the point where I was ready to stop doing a desk job,” she says, and to build something tangible—a space where people could actually see one another again.
Haymarket occupies a deliberate middle ground between the region’s more formal dining destinations and its ultra-casual grab-and-go spots. The menu focuses on breakfast and lunch, with food that feels considered but not precious, priced to be part of everyday life rather than an occasional splurge. “Delicious things at an accessible price point,” as Stowell puts it, was the goal from the start.
Currently operating out of about 2,700 square feet, Haymarket pairs its cafe menu with a small market stocked with New York-sourced goods. Much of the produce comes via Hudson Harvest, which aggregates products from regional farms, while other items arrive through more organic relationships—like honey from the county’s beehive inspector, who simply stopped by one day to offer it. Seasonal logic drives the menu: corn salads in late summer, beet- and Brussels sprout-based dishes in winter, built around what’s available and reliable.
A handful of dishes have already emerged as signatures, shaped by a deliberate effort to offer vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options in a region where those choices can be limited. Gluten-free breakfast tacos—available with eggs and cheese or as a fully vegan option—have become a point of pride for their inclusivity as much as their flavor. The same philosophy informs the rest of the menu, from an Alpine-inspired mac and cheese made with locally produced Sfoglini pasta, potatoes, and Gruyère, to a tomato soup and grilled cheese combo that Stowell calls “comfort food, slightly elevated.”
The building itself shaped Haymarket as much as the menu did. Stowell says she fell for the church not just for its scale, but for its history and acoustics—she spent years singing in church choirs, and recognized the space immediately. “I think I made the decision to buy it when I was standing in the choir loft,” she says.
That history is now feeding the future. Plans are underway for a second phase that would expand into the former sanctuary, adding seating and a bar aimed at filling a notable local gap: a place to have a glass of wine with friends on a Saturday afternoon that isn’t a hotel or sports bar. Construction is slated to begin after ski season, with an eye toward opening later in 2026.
For Stowell, Haymarket’s success isn’t measured only in sales, but in its role within Hensonville—a hamlet she notes was once a bustling center, complete with a theater and grocery store, before decades of quiet. Many of her employees live within walking distance; regulars range from longtime locals to weekenders. Over time, she hopes the cafe becomes a hub for talks, gatherings, and shared history, helping the town feel animated again. “Fifty years ago, this was the place where people congregated,” she says. “I love the idea of helping spark that again.”
Haymarket Catskills
363 Route 296, Hensonville
This article appears in February 2026.
