Once known as a sleepy hamlet, over the last decade we’ve seen Rosendale’s vibrant potential evolve without losing its charm. While that’s included the loss of local favorites like the long-running Rosendale Cafe, which announced its closure in October 2022 after nearly three decades, it’s also meant the addition of new businesses bringing creative energy that enhances rather than overrides Rosendale’s enduring spirit. Bistrot le Chat Barbu, a French-inspired restaurant that recently took over Rosendale Cafe’s former space, meets that vibe by offering high-end yet down-to-earth dining.
“Our name translates to ‘the bearded cat’ and that’s about as serious as we take ourselves—yet the quality of our food and services are very important,” says chef and owner Devin Delgado. “We offer an eclectic mix of classic French bistro dishes and food from former French colonies, reimagined and on an ever-changing menu.” Open since March 5, the bistro currently serves dinner Wednesday through Sunday, with lunch and brunch to come this spring.
Delgado worked as a private chef in New York City for about a decade before deciding to change his career trajectory toward owning a neighborhood restaurant. “When I knew my time as a private chef was coming to an end, I thought: I don’t need to be this avant garde chef, I’m past that part. I want to cook the grandma food—classic dishes without sacrificing quality,” Delgado says.
While he was searching for the right location, Degado’s father attended an event at the Rosendale Cafe, which had just announced its upcoming closure, and he suggested checking it out. Delgado was hesitant because he didn’t want to lease, but in contrast to the adage, curiosity gave life to this cat. “My father basically pulled me by the ear to see the place, and when I walked through the door, I immediately saw that it was picture perfect for what I wanted to do,” he says.
While Le Chat Barbu’s menu will feature some standards, Delgado’s mission is to use local, organic, and seasonal ingredients as often as possible. “We’ll always have some favorites like a French onion soup and some version of a coq au vin, but seasonality is important so the menu changes frequently; you can always expect new things,” he says.
In their first couple of weeks, Delgado says the best seller was a coq au vin jaune, a Jura-style half chicken made with yellow wine from France, alongside shallots, carrots, mushrooms, bacon lardons, and creme fraiche ($35). Another popular pick is the cotes de boeuf braisées: tender beef short ribs with mashed potatoes, pearl onions, bacon, roasted mushrooms, and red wine jus ($38). “The vegan curry pot pie has also been a much bigger seller than expected, and I’m glad of that,” he adds. Baked in a clay pot, the hearty plant-based dish includes potato, Brussels sprouts, spinach, and root veggies in a coconut curry gravy ($28). A prix fixe menu offering three courses at $45 will be available this spring.
The menu also includes canapes like champignons, stuffed button mushrooms ($7); hors d’oeuvres including escargots feuilletes, Burgundy snails in a garlic-parsley butter with pastis, served in a puff pastry with aioli ($18). “[The producer] Peconic Escargot is based in Long Island and is the only domestic Burgundy snail producer on the East Coast; their snails are fed only basil and are very high quality,” Delgado explains. He also uses regional purveyors like Veritas Farms and Kingston Bread and Bar. “They make such exceptional baguettes, which we’ll use for our sandwiches when lunch begins,” he adds.
A few local beverage favorites will grace the wine, beer, cocktail, and mocktail menu, once a liquor license is finalized this spring. “Much like our approach to culinary, our offerings will be rooted in France with a portion devoted to small, regional wine producers, and anything else that grabs our attention can get its place in the sun,” he says.
While the cuisine is different, echoes of the former cafe remain in its layout, despite changes to design. “We had to do a huge amount of renovations just for structural safety and sanitation; we opened Pandora’s wall while making a massive expansion to the kitchen,” he says. “We did upgrades to the electric, propane, structural support, and I built a brand new bartop, but people who remember the footprint of the dining room will be familiar with the space. And we hope to see those who came to the Rosendale Cafe. We want to offer a high-end but casual dining experience for the local customer first and as a dining destination second—just always offering the best quality product and service without being out of reach: no pretense, no ego, just love.”
Current hours are Wednesday through Saturday from 5:30 until 9pm; Sunday, 5-8pm, with lunch and Sunday brunch coming soon.
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