Perhaps the nearby towns of Woodstock and Hunter get more prominent billing, but the picturesque Catskills hamlet of Phoenicia is brimming with activities to fill a weekend itinerary. With creekside lodging, farm-to-table dining, and shops that run the gamut from rustic to hip to quirky, here’s a glimpse at what to see and do in Phoenicia.
Where to Stay
The Graham & Co. is a 20-room hotel set back on three acres around the corner from Main Street with amenities aplenty: a swimming pool, hammocks, fire pit, and even bikes you can borrow to troll around town. Each room is thoughtfully designed with a nod to Catskills heritage, but with modern comforts in mind like luxe bedding and Tivoli bluetooth radios.
Those seeking further privacy can venture a short drive to the casual accommodations at Phoenicia Lodge, offering rustic rooms, private cottages, and spacious suites along the Esopus Creek. Or, if you’d rather stay in the thick of it all, the Phoenicia Belle Inn is a traditional B&B located in the center of Main Street; its cozy accommodations are just steps away from shops, galleries, and restaurants.
Designers and the aesthetically-minded will geek out over the CMYK-themed accommodations at Norsdale, with its nine chromatic guest rooms. Each has its own color color scheme and distinctive sleeping configuration.
Where to Eat
Phoenicia Diner’s gourmet twist on traditional diner fare has attracted a steady fanbase, hungry for favorites like a goat cheese and spinach omelet, or the Catskills Po’Boy with cornmeal crusted trout, remoulade, tomato, and lettuce on a baguette. The pandemic shuttered other breakfast standby Sweet Sue’s for two long years. But the Phoenicia favorite reopened in summer 2022 under new management. The new owners bought Sue‘s famous pancake recipes, which are served up hot off the griddle along with an expanded menu of diner-adjacent breakfast fare and a house-smoked meats program.
For those craving Italian, it’s hard to resist the wood-fired pizza at Brio’s. They’ve also got a short menu of gourmet sandwiches that are pleasing to both the palate and the wallet.
Home chefs and gourmands should swing by the Phoenicia Farmers’ Market, every Sunday from 10am to 2pm across from the Post Office, for a selection of seasonal produce and flowers from local producers like O’Connor Farm Flowers, Windfall Farms, Wrights Farm as well as apothecary products, locally roasted coffee, artisanal nutmilks, and more.
What to Do
Phoenicia’s Main Street is lined with locally owned businesses, each with its own unique wares. Find contemporary housewares and gifts at Tender Land Home, vintage and artisan-crafted goods at Mélange, and casual-yet-trendy clothes at Catskills Clothing Company.
The Nest Egg is a longstanding, old-fashioned country store offering a range of useful and unusual items, from locally made jam and fudge, to hiking guides, and even moccasins for the whole family.
Catch community theater performances at Phoenicia Playhouse, home of the Shandaken Theatrical Society. In summers past, adventurous types could take to the Esopus Creek in to tube down the rapids with Town Tinker Tube Rental. But the business is currently on the market. Fingers crossed it will get purchased soon, so whitewater fun can resume.
If you still want to get in the creek, plan an expedition with fly fishing company Catskill Outfitters, who will equip you with everything from waders, boots, and fly tying materials to a seasoned guide to show you the ropes, err, lines. If you want to stick to dry land, take the moderate year-round trek up Tremper Mountain, whose 2,740-foot peak offers ample views of the Catskills from atop a fire tower.
Enjoy a post-hike beer at Woodstock Brewing; though its name might harken to the famous town nearby, the family-friendly microbrewery serves IPAs, lagers, and pub grub right on Route 28 in Phoenicia.
This article appears in March 2020.
Why on Earth did you include an outdated photo of the Old Phoenicia Pharmacy? It is now Phoenicia Arts & Antiques, completely renovated, and doing a booming business selling artwork to decorate all the new Inns, B&Bs and Boutique Lodges sprouting up. (Including some you mentioned.) The A&A is the jazzed-up reincarnation of the legendary Arts Upstairs Gallery, now in a spectacular glass enclosed street level space. Flooded with sun in the afternoons for all to enjoy on comfy stuffed chairs. Handicap accessible! This is a real success story! A community gallery and antique emporium. Music, poetry, knitting bees! Even a “Honey Lady” selling bee products! A&A is the story! Heads up! How did you miss that?
Yes, Arts snd Antiques has the feeling of early SoHo, NY, shops. The emporium managed by Margaret Owen, the Canal Street artist who was among the first street vendors on West Broadway.
Many East Village artists show there along with a fascinating set of other unique crafters, artists and business people. Definitely a must stop in the heart of The Catskills.
I don’t mind seeing the old pharmacy pic. I spent many weekends and summers up there when my grandfather owned the gas station when it was the Mobile gas station. Beautiful town and great memories
dont forget about Rail Explorers which welcomes 25,000 people to the town of Phoenicia each summer!
AND just a few minutes west on Route 28 is The Blue Barn Marketplace One of the Oldest business’s in the entire region having started way back in 1979! 2 Buildings packed full of antiques and vintage furniture,home decor and clothing.