From old-school corner deli to modern emporium, the Rossi family now have even more to bring to our tables with the Rossi & Sons Alimentari, their new market/eatery in Eastdale Village. The new development, east of Adams Fairacre Farms on Route 44, is just four miles away from their original location, Rossi & Sons Rosticceria on Clover Street in Poughkeepsie.
Since opening their deli in 1979, the family has managed to satisfy a continuous line of hungry fans and regulars with their massive, mouthwatering sandwiches and other Italian favorites. However, a popular business doesn’t happen overnight. Originally from Parma, Italy—think Parmigiano Reggiano—and from a long line of farmers, Giovanni “Papa John” Rossi knew the ins and outs of good food. From working the family’s land to cooking in the military, Rossi was primed with experience when he arrived in New York in the 1960s. With connections from friends and family who emigrated to New York nearly 30 years before him, he and wife Angela, from Calabria, settled in Poughkeepsie, which had a sizable Italian population, restaurant scene, and affordable real estate.
Today, they have grown into a three-location operation, including a cafeteria at Marist College, opened in 2018, and now the 3,000-square-foot Alimentari. Complete with a commissary kitchen which serves all three locations as well as a catering business, the Eastdale Village spot is modern, spacious, and outfitted for a whole new flock of fans.
Sons Fabio, Roberto, and Mauro Rossi—a fourth son, Alex, is a captain in the Marines—have split up the executive duties for each location and are carrying on the tradition of offering the community delicious Italian fare. “I’m so happy for my boys, and I’m happy they want to continue the tradition,” says Papa John. “Family is everything, and they understand what tradition means. They have represented the family well and [will] for many years to come.”
Whether you’re Italian or not, a social media influencer or not, or just want a damned good sandwich, the Alimentari has numerous stations with lots of variety. There’s the bakery with pastries, breads, and espresso run by Dustin King, who spent five years at The Wynn in Las Vegas before joining forces with the Rossi’s in the early phases of planning for the Alimentari. The cases and counters are filled with the family’s incredibly popular focaccia, ciabatta, muffuletta, pignoli cookies, or light and flaky cornetto (almond, pistachio, or my favorite, hazelnut), to name a few. Then the fresh panini station where Rossi’s offers over 20 options from the Muffuletta (with all the meats) and Brindizi (with artichoke) to the ‘Zo (with bresaola) or the classic Caprese (the homage to the Italian flag, with tomato, mozzarella, and herbs). Next is the Alimentari’s nod to their original location with the Clover Street station where they prepare the hot paninis like the Quattro Falso (with eggplant, ricotta, and balsamic), Chicken Parm, or their most popular, the Number Four (with chicken cutlet, prosciutto, herb pesto, fresh mozzarella, roasted peppers, and extra virgin olive oil, all on the house made focaccia. (Sandwiches range in price from $13 to $18.)
In addition to being much larger than the cramped Clover Street deli, every corner at Eastdale has been curated by the Rossis and Chef Rei Peraza, formerly of Panzur in Tivoli. With a self-service kiosk at the front for most of the ordering, Peraza has added a variety of new sandwiches and salads in addition to the popular hot paninis voted area favorites for years. (Rossi’s has won the Chronogrammie for the sandwich category in 2020 and 2021, and is a strong favorite in 2022.) At a crossroads before the pandemic, Peraza joined the family, whom he’d known for years, on their new adventure. “I knew it would be fun,” Peraza says with a laugh, acknowledging that the fun included years of preparation, trial and error, and pandemic setbacks.
One thing visitors will notice: A sandwich is not just a sandwich at Rossi’s. Especially at the Alimentari, where space affords creativity, you get a “curated and layered experience,” Fabio Rossi says. “We want to create some mystery,” he continues. “To taste every layer but wonder what each one is, how much of this, how much of that or how it was made.”
When you pass the kiosks, you’ll hit the antipasto bar, my personal favorite. Undeniably conjuring old Italian delis with rows and rows of salami and sausages hanging from the ceiling, and cases filled with rounds of cheeses, freshmade aiolis and sauces, or marinated or roasted vegetables, the platters here beckon those created at specialty emporiums like Eataly or Dean & DeLuca. I was happy to let Anthony Murgola, who runs the antipasto bar, put together my custom platter and was impressed with the innumerable options available. On my last visit, even the slice of focaccia on the side of my extensive plate was not just a side; it spanned the length of the plate, and was drizzled with a lemon-infused olive oil. It was every bit as flavorful as the rest, including fresh bresaola, mortadella, burrata, and provolone, and fragrant truffled mushrooms. With a variety of Italian drinks like sparkling waters, juices, or sodas (a limonata Pellegrino for me), I sat outside in the sun at one of the many picnic tables, complete with umbrellas, set up along each side of the market.
The Alimentari includes even more imported packaged goods than Clover Street, something the family hopes to continue expanding. Countless gifts or home cook options include items like imported tinned fish, infused olive oils and vinegars, canned or jarred sauces, coffee, chocolates, and other sweets.
When asked about achieving their latest development, Fabio Rossi, who serves as the general manager for the business, says, “I think the most enduring part has to be the unwillingness to settle. [We] always pay attention to detail. It’s a pride thing; the worst thing in the world would be for people in the Rossi community to have anything less than a memorable experience. We are selfish in that respect; no matter who it’s for, the importance of the food that represents us is paramount, no exceptions, no shortcuts, no premade, nothing—just good, honest, delicious food. That’s it. We make what we like and hope people feel the same.”
Back at the Clover Street deli, people are still waiting in the small space for sandwiches and trays of food alongside the narrow shelves, piled high to the ceiling with oils, sauces, panetone, and biscotti. And, because the family still lives next door, Papa John is around as much as he can be. “He is still up and at ’em,” says Fabio. “He helps anyway he can, like breading, frying, and sweeping. But his most important role is customer relations; it’s important for him to connect with our patrons, smiling, laughing, and talking with them.”And, as many know of him, if Papa’s around, you just might be given a little extra treat on your way out.
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This article appears in April 2022.
