Copenhagen has a reputation as a daytime city: bikes, harbor swims, design shops and long lunches of smørrebrød. But when the light fades, which in the Nordic autumn happens early, the Danish capital turns into something warmer and more theatrical. Lanterns come on in Tivoli, jazz drifts up from basement clubs, and in a handful of grand old buildings, roulette wheels start to spin. For Hudson Valley travelers planning a trip, here is a guide to Copenhagen after dark, and to the quiet, very Danish way the country approaches a night at the tables.
Start with the lights of Tivoli
No evening in Copenhagen is complete without Tivoli Gardens. Opened in 1843, it is one of the oldest amusement parks in the world, and it is said to have inspired Walt Disney on a visit to the city. By day, it is a park with rides and flower beds. By night, it is something else entirely: thousands of lights strung through the trees, open-air concerts, and restaurants tucked between the old wooden pavilions.
Tivoli is open in seasons rather than year-round, with summer, Halloween and Christmas runs, so check the calendar before you go. If your trip falls outside the season, the streets around the central station and the City Hall Square still give you a taste of the same old-fashioned glow, with cafés and bars that stay busy well into the night.
Down the stairs for jazz
Copenhagen has been a jazz city since the 1960s, when a number of American musicians settled here and found a more welcoming audience than they did at home. The legacy lives on in intimate clubs where you can sit within arm’s length of the band. Jazzhus Montmartre, a name with a long history in the city, is the best known, but smaller venues across the inner city host everything from traditional swing to experimental sets.
If you visit in July, the Copenhagen Jazz Festival takes over the entire city, with concerts in parks, squares, churches and courtyards, many of them free. For music lovers used to the Hudson Valley’s own live scene, from Kingston to Beacon, it is one of the most rewarding festivals in Europe, and an easy way to see the city at its most relaxed.
Denmark’s casinos: seven doors to an older world
Denmark legalized casinos at the start of the 1990s, and today the country has seven licensed land-based casinos. They are a world away from the neon of Las Vegas or the sprawling resorts of the Northeast. Think instead of hotel casinos with dress codes, quiet carpeted rooms, and croupiers who switch effortlessly between Danish and English.
In the capital, Casino Copenhagen inside the Radisson Blu Scandinavia Hotel is the country’s largest, with table games, poker tournaments and slot machines. Forty-five minutes north, Casino Marienlyst sits in the historic Hotel Marienlyst on the seafront in Helsingør, a short walk from Kronborg Castle, the setting of Shakespeare’s Hamlet. Combining a castle visit by day with an evening at Marienlyst is a classic Danish day trip. There are also casinos in Odense, the hometown of Hans Christian Andersen, in Aarhus, Aalborg and at Munkebjerg near Vejle, overlooking one of the country’s most beautiful fjords.
What to know before you go
Danish casinos are relaxed but not casual. A few practical points will make the evening smoother:
- Bring photo ID. Every guest is registered at the entrance, and the minimum age is 18.
- Dress smart casual. Sneakers and sportswear may get you turned away, especially on weekend evenings.
- Expect an entrance fee at some casinos, often waived with a hotel or restaurant package.
- Games are familiar to American visitors: roulette, blackjack, poker and slot machines, though the atmosphere is more restrained than at a U.S. casino.
- Tipping is not expected in the way it is at home, but leaving a small tip for the dealer after a good night is appreciated.
Most casinos pair the gaming floor with a restaurant or bar, so many Danes treat it as part of a dinner out rather than a destination in itself. That is perhaps the best way for a visitor to approach it, too.
How Danes play today: mostly on their phones
For all the charm of the land-based casinos, most Danish gambling now happens online. Denmark opened its online market to licensed private operators in 2012, and the result is one of Europe’s most tightly regulated systems. Every licensed site must verify players’ identity, require a deposit limit and check players against ROFUS, a national register where anyone can exclude themselves from all Danish gambling sites at once. Winnings from licensed operators are tax-free for players, because the operators pay the tax instead.
Because the rules are strict and the market is crowded, Danes rely heavily on independent guides to danske casinoer – Danish for “Danish casinos” – that review which sites hold a Danish license, how their bonuses work and how quickly they pay out. Casinoer.dk, one of the oldest of these guides and online since 1998, also keeps track of the land-based scene, including a running count of how many casinos the country has.
A Danish lesson in moderation
What stands out to many American visitors is how unhurried it all feels. The Danish concept of hygge, often translated as coziness, applies even here: a good dinner, a few rounds of roulette, a walk back along the harbor. Gambling is treated as one part of an evening, not the point of it, and the strict regulation reflects a broad Danish consensus that it should stay that way.
It is a mindset worth borrowing. Set a budget before you sit down, treat any losses as the price of the evening’s entertainment, and leave when it stops being fun. Danish casino guides reflect the same culture. Casinoer.dk, for example, lists only casinos with a Danish licence and shows links to the national helpline StopSpillet and the ROFUS register next to its offers. The best casino night, in the Danish view, is one where the game is the backdrop and the company is the main event.
Frequently asked questions
Can tourists visit casinos in Denmark?
Yes. Danish casinos welcome international visitors, and staff typically speak excellent English. You must be at least 18 and show valid photo ID, such as a passport, when you register at the entrance. Some casinos charge an entrance fee and expect smart casual dress, so it is worth checking the individual casino’s website before you go, especially if you plan to visit on a Friday or Saturday evening.
What is the best casino to visit in Copenhagen?
Casino Copenhagen at the Radisson Blu Scandinavia Hotel is the largest in the country and the most convenient for visitors staying in the city. If you have time for a day trip, Casino Marienlyst in Helsingør is worth the train ride north. It is a short walk from Kronborg Castle, so you can combine Danish history by day with an elegant evening by the sea.
When is Tivoli Gardens open?
Tivoli is open in seasons rather than year-round. The main summer season runs through the warmer months, followed by shorter Halloween and Christmas seasons with their own decorations and events. Opening dates and hours change from year to year, so check Tivoli’s official calendar when planning your trip. Outside the seasons, the park is closed, but the surrounding area remains lively.
Gambling should be entertainment, never a way to make money. If you or someone you know has a gambling problem, New York’s HOPEline offers free, confidential support 24/7 at 1-877-8-HOPENY, and help is also available through 1800gambler.net.
