With rustic brick-edge floors and a farmhouse aesthetic, Fulton and Forbes is a new wine and spirits shop in Ancram that evokes the appeal of rural vineyards and distilleries, seemingly of a bygone era. “It’s almost like walking into someone’s country home,” says owner/operator Rachel Merriam. “I wanted a cozy cottage design to display our selection of classic wines from classic regions.”
Here you’ll find offerings from small producers of organic, biodynamic, or sustainable wines of iconic European terroir: Tuscany, Piedmont, Burgundy, Bordeaux, and others. But of course, there’s a smattering of Hudson Valley vintages as well, by the likes of Hudson Chatham Winery, Milea Estate Vineyard, and Field Supply Wine, the latter also in Ancram.
Merriam, who studied culinary arts at the CIA before achieving a Bachelor’s in hospitality management, developed a passion for wine while working at Casa Mono, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Manhattan’s Gramercy neighborhood. “I started as a server and showed interest in the wine program, then worked my way up to assistant sommelier, lead sommelier, and finally wine director at their multiple locations,” she says. She also tried her hand at sales for an importer/distributor until the pandemic brought her upstate.
“A few friends purchased a winery in Ghent, and I had the opportunity to leave the city and help launch their brand,” she says. “But I knew I wanted to be in business for myself, and when choosing between a wine bar or retail, I chose retail because I could do it on my own.”
In March 2022 she purchased the building—which, after past lives as a service station, deli, then cafe, had sat vacant since 2008—and jumped into a two-year renovation. “There was so much water damage, the foundation failed, it required much more work than anticipated,” she explains. “A previous owner did a lot of DIY, so we had to get a proper general contractor to redo everything from electric to insulation.”
But then, the fun part: Merriam and a friend took on the design. “During the pandemic, I watched a lot of the Magnolia Network show “For the Love of Kitchens” featuring renovations by British design firm deVOL, and it inspired the idea for this British country style but with Shaker elements reminiscent of the Hudson Valley,” she says. “My friend and I did all of the design, including laying the brick floor, with the exception of custom cabinetry by Wood Works Chatham.”
And in reference to the shop's tagline "collected wine, spirits, and wares.” Merriam offers curated antique finds like decanters, vintage ice buckets, cocktail sets, and more. “It allows me to stage the shop with really beautiful pieces that are also for sale,” she says.
Although only open since late March, Merriam has begun weekly tastings, taking place every Friday. “They’re casual, complimentary tastings, where I’m happy to be pouring interesting wine and chatting,” she explains. “I love to meet people and have those conversations, and as the sole owner and operator, it means a lot to me to take time with customers. And I learn a lot, too; my background has been more focused on wine so I'm very excited about finding these new spirits, especially with so many fantastic products by great producers in our backyard like Hillrock Estate Distillery in Ancram and Coppersea Distillery in New Paltz. It all goes back to my hospitality roots, I love to talk about pairings, to discuss wine backgrounds, and just create relationships with people in the community.”
