Sips & Bites: 5 Places to Eat this Month | January 2022 | General Food & Drink | Hudson Valley | Chronogram Magazine
click to enlarge Sips & Bites: 5 Places to Eat this Month | January 2022
Harvest Smokehouse at Golden Harvest Farms

Harvest Smokehouse

3074 Route 9, Valatie;

At Harvest Smokehouse in Valatie, chef and CIA alum Andrew Chase is making a case for an authentically Upstate style of barbecue. Located on Golden Harvest Farm, the restaurant makes use of surplus applewood from the orchards to smoke meat basted and dressed in sauces made with apple juice, cider, and vinegar produced on-premises. The process creates barbecue that’s restrained and balanced in a way that allows diners to taste the subtler notes from wood and the natural sweetness of the fruit. Chase is staying away from the stronger flavor of beef, so don’t go looking for brisket. Instead try the St. Louis ribs by the half or full rack ($15, $26). Pulled pork is sold by the half or full pound ($9, $16) or get a whole hog sandwich with all the fixings ($16). Less common BBQ joint picks include turkey breast, bratwurst, and jerk chicken. All the mains come with a side of cornbread and sauce. Additional sides include Hudson Valley spins on classics like cider slaw, red cabbage kraut, sweet corn, potato salad, smoked mac and cheese, and drunken cider beans.

Reserva Wine Bar

173 Main Street, Beacon;

Tanner Townsend is a name primarily associated with coffee, as owner of three Krafted Cup locations in Dutchess County. But in early December, Townsend expanded his repertoire to include fine wines with the opening of Reserva Wine Bar in Beacon with his fiancé and business partner, Pedro Sousa. Located in the old Chill Wine Bar spot on Main Street, Reserva picks up its predecessor’s mantle as Beacon’s sole wine bar, though with a refined twist on the ambiance. The exposed brick wall behind the bar features ornate vintage mirrors. The space abounds with caramel leather—from the stools to the booths; a dark blue bar with a white quartz countertop nicely offsets the gold and brass accents throughout, creating an elegant clubhouse vibe. The duo is working with small distributors to curate a wine list of underrepresented varietals. There will also be cheese and charcuterie platters, giardiniera, and spiced nuts, with the menu expanding over time. Sousa’s Brazilian heritage shows up here and there from the bossa nova music bookings to the food and even the wine list. Wines by the glass run between $12 and $16, with bottles going from $80 to $200. Celebrating an anniversary or a special occasion? Dip into the Reserva wine list, which has high-end bottles with prices north of $300.


10 Banks Street, Accord;

Since being acquired by New York City tastemaker, restaurateur, and hotelier Taavo Somer, the former Rondout Golf Club in Accord has been reborn as Inness, a high-end hospitality destination with 40 guest rooms, a restaurant, farm shop, two swimming pools, tennis courts, and yes, a nine-hole golf course. Golfing isn’t for everyone, but the farm-to-table fare at the links-adjacent Inness is sure to draw a steady crowd. With an emphasis on local sourcing and seasonality, the restaurant at Inness focuses largely on wood-fired dishes prepared on outdoor smokers and grills and served a chic, modern environment, amidst blonde wood, vintage rugs, and blazing fireplaces. With western-facing windows, you get a view of the greens and the sunset behind the Catskill Mountains while you sip your craft cocktails or eat your meal. Inness’s dinner menu includes picks like the Denver steak served with new potatoes, charred turnips, and taleggio ($46) or the Berkshire pork chop served with braised greens and celery root ($42). There aren’t a ton of vegetarian options—just cacio e pepe on the menu in early December. On weekends, brunch is served from 11am to 3pm and features dishes both sweet and savory, like French toast served with honey butter, maple syrup, and sesame ($17) or a smoked white fish salad, pickles, hard boiled egg, and toast ($16).

Halcyon All Day Cafe

6384 Mill Street, Rhinebeck;

Rhinebeck’s newest eatery, Halcyon All Day Cafe serves traditional breakfast and lunch staples, including toast topped with ricotta and jam made in-house, salads, and rice bowls. It’s the latest project for Daniel Bagnall (of Sonder wine bar), who set out to create a casual spot that could feed the local community at any time of day. The West Coast native brings a piece of California to Rhinebeck with his bright, white-washed cafe, sunny yellow counter, and bistro tables. There are plenty of options for vegetarians from the avocado toast with roasted cauliflower and drizzled with chili oil ($9), to the shakshuka ($14.95) to the beet hummus bowl served with marinated tofu, pickled radish, smashed chickpea, cucumber, and zucchini ($9.95). But the shop’s sandwiches, served on milk bread baked in-house, are the stars of the menu. There is a classic brekkie option—bacon, egg, and cheese, with bacon roasted in agave nectar ($7). Or for a hearty lunch, check out the grilled skirt steak sandwich, which is topped with chimichurri and roasted garlic aioli ($14.95).

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